[67drake]

Ever since I bought my GTO back in ‘07 it has always required that I physically have to turn the key pretty far to get the engine to crank. Lately I have to actually put my thumb behind the cylinder to get it to crank. The last two times I drove it I almost couldn’t start it. Is this the ignition switch wearing or something in the lock cylinder, or ?
Hope I’m explaining it clearly.
It’s not physically difficult to rotate the cylinder, it’s almost like it runs out of room, if that makes sense.
Thanks

[64speed]

I would think it’s the lock cylinder

[mrennie]

The ignition switch has adjustment. I don't recall how at the moment but you can loosen the screws where it attaches on the steering column and change the engagement point.

If that doesn't work I would suspect the switch is wearing out.

[steve25]

If your talking about your 1970, the accutal switch is on the top of the steering column close to the brake pedal.

Where you put your key in is just a lock cylinder that drives a long rod down the column at active the switch.
The switch bolts down with two 5/16” hex head screws and they pass into the switch adjustment slots.
The correct adjustment of the switch is to first drop the column down.
Loosen the two screws and with the key on the off position push the switch back towards the steering wheel and then tighten up the two bolts.

If the switch is original you might as well just replace it do just it’s age while you have the column dropped down.

[77 TRASHCAN]

Just as Steve described. The switch could be slipping or an internal situation. I had a 85 F150 until lately. It finally quit engaging the contacts inside the switch. However the metal switch body was crimped onto the plastic piece that has all the electrical connections internally. I suspect I may have been able to tihhten the "crimp" some and readjust the position of the switch on the column, BUT I DID NOT, i replaced the switch along with a bunch of other goodies.

I replaced the switch on my 77 TA years ago. Had to take out t he drivers seat to really get a handle on things.

Regardless of what route you take. Take time to get the position of the switch in its exact correct location.
Mine was difficult to get correct. Getting it it's position so that you could turn the key to "accessory" and have it function took some patience.

[steve25]

Thanks, sorry that I forgot about the counter clockwise ACC position that needs to work.

So the adjustment is like needed in the above post,

[PunchT37]

Or, just loosen the switch and move it towards the steering wheel 1/16 inch. Tighten it up and see what happens.

[67drake]

Originally Posted by PunchT37

Or, just loosen the switch and move it towards the steering wheel 1/16 inch. Tighten it up and see what happens.

I think that’s what I’ll try!
I’ve never had to adjust an ignition switch, just replaced lock cylinders and neutral safety switches over the years. Glad to find out this is a possibility.
Thanks everyone.

[67drake]

Well, just did the turtle on his back imitation, and looked under the dash to see about dropping the steering column down. Having AC , looks like I’ll have to start by pulling some duct work. Screw that. I just called the part store and ordered a new switch! I’m not going to chance having to do this twice! So as Steve suggested, I’m going to replace the switch as long as I’m in there.
Man, I hated working under dashboards when I was in my 20’s. Almost 40 years, and at least 50 lbs. later , I’ll admit if I had anyone around here I trusted, I’d gladly pay them to do this type of work!

[mzbk2l]

I'm the same way about getting under the dash. I recently had my '67 Cutlass up about three feet off the ground and found I could stand in the doorway and work under the dash without bending anything but my elbows. I was trying to think of an excuse to work on something under there while it was that easy! Good luck with the ignition switch...

[67drake]

Originally Posted by mzbk2l

I'm the same way about getting under the dash. I recently had my '67 Cutlass up about three feet off the ground and found I could stand in the doorway and work under the dash without bending anything but my elbows. I was trying to think of an excuse to work on something under there while it was that easy! Good luck with the ignition switch...

I actually have a lift in my plans.
My HVAC guy is supposed to come next week to start my garage furnace install. I hope to have a lift in by springtime, but a million irons in the fire right now.

[Sirrotica]

69 thru 72 are notorious for ignition switch failures. In 1975 I had a 70 Judge that failed with under 60,000 miles and less than 5 years old, and I've replaced many more in customer cars since then.

Replacing it when you're already in there, is probably very smart. The contacts in the OEM switches were no where near robust enough when they were designed, and are failure prone.

Going back to your original complaint, I would say that the symptom in your case would be the switch is misadjusted, and the 2, 5/16 inch headed screws that hold it in place have loosened enough over time that the switch has slowly crept out of adjustment.

Put the new switch in, adjust it, and lock those screws down within reason, you don't want to strip them, or break one off, but they do require a little extra torque to keep the switch from slipping out of adjustment. Remove your battery cables when replacing the switch to keep from accidently starting the car, always a good idea to disable the electrical system when doing work such as this.

I have changed/adjusted GM igition switches without dreopping the column, but it's so much easier when you can see what you're doing, and have some extra room by dropping it. It's faster to drop the column than trying to work from feel with it in position.

[67drake]

Originally Posted by Sirrotica

69 thru 72 are notorious for ignition switch failures. In 1975 I had a 70 Judge that failed with under 60,000 miles and less than 5 years old, and I've replaced many more in customer cars since then.

Replacing it when you're already in there, is probably very smart. The contacts in the OEM switches were no where near robust enough when they were designed, and are failure prone.

Going back to your original complaint, I would say that the symptom in your case would be the switch is misadjusted, and the 2, 5/16 inch headed screws that hold it in place have loosened enough over time that the switch has slowly crept out of adjustment.

Put the new switch in, adjust it, and lock those screws down within reason, you don't want to strip them, or break one off, but they do require a little extra torque to keep the switch from slipping out of adjustment. Remove your battery cables when replacing the switch to keep from accidently starting the car, always a good idea to disable the electrical system when doing work such as this.

I have changed/adjusted GM igition switches without dreopping the column, but it's so much easier when you can see what you're doing, and have some extra room by dropping it. It's faster to drop the column than trying to work from feel with it in position.

I told my parts store guy to order the best one he could. I figure these days they’re probably all made in China, but he knows by now not to order the cheap parts for me.

[77 TRASHCAN]

My local Oreillys store has started carrying Standard Motor Products. I know some of their stuff is imported, but their quality has always been good. I sold their stuff when I worked in a parts store, 1985-1998.

I'm not sure if all Oreillys carry the same brands of parts in all of their stores, they are such a big company...

[67drake]

Ok. I got the column dropped, got the plug off the switch closest to the steering wheel. The rear plug-Ugh! I depress the locking tab on the top to get the plug out of the old switch but it won’t budge. It feels like there is another lock or tab holding it. I’ve crawled under there with a mirror, and don’t see a lock on top, bottom , or back. Usually I’d just muscle it, but with 50+ year old wiring and plugs, I don’t really want to force anything.
Anyone done one of these remember if there is more than one tab on that rear plug?
Thanks

[67drake]

Wow! Gonna walk away from this for awhile. I’ve been under the dash for 2 hours. I took that harmonica looking harness off right below the ignition for a better view. Between the mirror and my face being 6” from this plug, I can’t for the life of me see anything locking it in place beyond the one you depress on the top.
Search of this site, the Chevelle site , and Google in general turns up nothing. Nobody has mentioned this as a problem.
The copper connections look almost new, so I’m not fighting corrosion.
I honestly feel if I pull and wiggle any harder , I’m just going to snap the plug off.
Unless someone has an idea , that may be the route I have to take, and look for a replacement plug later.

[67drake]

Got it off. Took switch off the column, then just pried on all 4 sides with a screwdriver. Still no idea what the issue was, but it sure the heck didn’t want to let go.

[67drake]

Got it off. Took switch off the column, then just pried on all 4 sides with a screwdriver. Still no idea what the issue was, but it sure the heck didn’t want to let go.

[kyle_blake]

following , would love to see this rod via a pic that everyone is talking about.. keep us posted!!!

[steve25]

Yes, there a bear to unplug because , number 1 there designed to be tight and the plastic the switch itself is made of over the years out gasses and shrinks which makes the fit even tighter.

Sorry, it's been so long since I did one I forgot that it's best to just remove the whole deal to get better leverage on it.

Glad you hung in there as I am sure you are also.

Enjoy the car now!