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#1
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Temperature sending unit
I am running both the factory light and a mechanical gauge in my car. Right now I have the idiot light in the back of the head and the gauge probe in the crossover. I am going to have to cut back the wrap on the harness to get this to work. Long story short how inaccurate will my gauge be if it’s in the back of the head and place the idiot light in the crossover?
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468/TKO600 Ford thru bolt equipped 64 Tempest Custom. Custom Nocturne Blue with black interior. |
#2
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Well, seeing the coolant enters the block through the large holes in the front of the block from the water pump, I believe it then moves coolant through the holes in block into the heads which moves it to the front crossover then exits through the thermostat when open. So I would say the coolant is at it's hotter point when it gets into the crossover. The passenger head moves coolant to the heater core then back to water pump. I would say the gauge in the crossover would be the better location for the coolant temp point. I would think for a more accurate reading. There maybe other factors at play when it comes to engine temp.
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68 Firebird. IA2 block, 505 cu in, SD Performance E-head, Solid roller 3600 weight. Reid TH400 4:11 gear. 29" slick. Best so far 9.95@134 mph. 1.43 60 ft. 76 Trans am, TKX .81 o/d, 3.73 Moser rearend, 468 with KRE D-ports, Doug headers, 3" Exh. |
#3
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It’s hard to say, but why don’t you get the car running first and then once the motor has been broken in and idling at temp, take a thermal gun and shoot the rear of each head where a water nipple could go and then do the same at the crossover .
I doubt you will find more then a 8 degree difference between front and rear once everything is all heated up and at a stable temperature and at cruse rpms, but at full throttle and high rpm there may be a greater difference.
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Wernher Von Braun warned before his retirement from NASA back in 1972, that the next world war would be against the ETs! And he was not talking about 1/8 or 1/4 mile ETs! 1) 1940s 100% silver 4 cup tea server set. Two dry rotted 14 x 10 Micky Thompson slicks. 1) un-mailed in gift coupon from a 1972 box of corn flakes. Two pairs of brown leather flip flops, never seen more then 2 mph. Education is what your left with once you forget things! |
#4
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Quote:
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468/TKO600 Ford thru bolt equipped 64 Tempest Custom. Custom Nocturne Blue with black interior. |
#5
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Where are you installing the the Sniper temp sensor?
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Will Rivera '69 Firebird 400/461, 290+ E D-Ports, HR 230/236, 4l80E, 8.5 Rear, 3.55 gears ‘66 Lemans, 455, KRE D-Ports, TH350, 12 bolt 3.90 gears '69 LeMans Vert, 350, #47 heads: work in progress |
#6
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If you have a gauge, just eliminate the idiot light, you will never use it anyway. Plus, I believe the factory light/sensor doesn't come on until like 225-230 degrees.
If you're intent on running it, just add a jumper wire from the harness back to the new sensor location, done. .
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. 1970 GTO Judge Tribute Pro-Tour Project 535 IA2 http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=760624 1971 Trans Am 463, 315cfm E-head Sniper XFlow EFI, TKO600 extreme, 9", GW suspension, Baer brakes, pro tour car https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...ght=procharger Theme Song: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7zKAS...ature=youtu.be |
#7
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Quote:
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468/TKO600 Ford thru bolt equipped 64 Tempest Custom. Custom Nocturne Blue with black interior. |
#8
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Some idiot light temp sensors, in fact quite a few of them, are adjustable ... small slotted screw in a recess next to the terminal .... you could adjust it to compensate for whatever location you use it in.
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I'm World's Best Hyperbolist !! |
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