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The Body Shop TECH General questions that don't fit in any other forum |
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#1
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Cavity wax
Has anyone had experience using cavity wax. How is it? What's a good brand? And is it worth using inside frame rails and down inside doors? Thanks Tom
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#2
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I use 3M Rust Fighter 1. 3M also sells an application wand that attaches to a schutz gun. I use it inside doors, trunk drop offs, floor braces, rockers and inside quarters etc.
Don |
#3
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I believe the rust fighter is discontinued by 3M and now they have cavity wax Plus
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#4
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Quote:
Thanks, Don |
#5
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After my wife hit 50 I made her start using cavity wax.
I don't have the time to make her generate the OEM stuff. |
The Following User Says Thank You to dataway For This Useful Post: | ||
#6
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Quote:
Hmmmmmm |
#7
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I have used 3M Rust Fighter-I 08892 in spray cans and also Auto Armor Inside Rust Protection which is in quart cans and needs a sprayer with a wand that uses compressed air.
Have used it on several vehicles. A 2003 S10 pickup when I replaced the cab corners. Just traded off that truck (200.000 MI +) because I didn't want to have to do the rocker panels now. All I can say is that my repair lasted a lot longer than the factory original whatever that was. Also did an application on a 2008 Sable I bought in 2009 with very low miles. Pulled out the rocker plugs and sprayed inside with the wand. Sealed the pinch weld around the rear wheel (with spray undercoating) because that always rusts first right near a corner where several panels come together. Now with 125.000+ miles in Iowa winters there is still no sign of rust. Also put it inside the rockers and quarter panels of my 61 when I redid the repair the previous owner had not quite done right. But that probably doesn't count as I haven't washed the car in years. Try not to get it dirty and just use spray detailer. So it still looks good. |
#8
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Is cavity wax effective at all inside a 60's frame that would obviously already have rust? I plan to blast the frame myself down the road in a few years, but want something on the inside to just help slow rust growth. Or should I be looking at an internal frame coating paint like Jeg's or Eastwood makes?
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#9
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True dat.
__________________
1970 GTO (Granada Gold) - 400 / TH400 |
#10
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Winner!
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#11
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I don’t think it’s ever too late to protect areas that might have existing corrosion, whether they are easily accessible or not. I have a 6-7’ section of leftover ice-maker copper line I straightened out then adapted to an old blow gun and I blow out what I can before the wax. I’m currently using Noxudol 700 and like the results even compared to 3M. At work I recently inspected an 8” diameter bare steel natural gas main that that I made leak repairs to about 4yrs ago. We use a similar barrier type wax coating on any surfaces outside of our repair area. When I recently removed those applied coatings, I was amazed how the surface looked exactly how I left it years ago. Areas of bare bright steel that were covered were still bright and other areas of surface corrosion that i protected were just as I left them. That was 8’ below ground and submerged below the water table at least 1/2 of those years. It made me reassess how I view protective coatings. Sorry for the novel, just thought it was cool… lol |
#12
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X2 ^^^^^^^^^^
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#13
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Guys have been using penetrol on rat rods to keep patina from rusting for a long time w good results. There’s also zep comercial floor wax which needs a special product to be removed it’s been used in fiberglass for a shine for many an RV but could possibly work for car bottoms. .
And a CRC anti corrosion product has scored well in many test of most other well known products. .
__________________
Happiness is just a turbocharger away! 960 HP @ 11 psi, 9.70 at 146. Iron heads, iron stock 2 bolt block , stock crank, 9 years haven't even changed a spark plug! selling turbos and turbo related parts since 2005! |
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