[PMD1969]

I'm looking at buying a carb that has an electric choke on it and I need a way to trigger it. Anyone have a part and number for what you are using to do this?

Thanks!

[TheSilverBuick]

I don't have a carb numbers, but any late 70's Q-jet really, and a few of the early-mid 70's Q-jets with a thermal choke can be converted.

The only thing required once the electric choke is installed is a 12 volt source that comes on with the ignition key.

Not 100% related, but I did an electric choke conversion on my Thunderbird's Autolite 4300 carb. It had the heat tube from the exhaust manifold, and it was as simple as popping the outside plate off (with the coil) and installing an electric version, strangely enough I got from a Q-jet, lol. Ran a key'd +12v wire to it and it worked great.

[PMD1969]

Originally Posted by TheSilverBuick

I don't have a carb numbers, but any late 70's Q-jet really, and a few of the early-mid 70's Q-jets with a thermal choke can be converted.

The only thing required once the electric choke is installed is a 12 volt source that comes on with the ignition key.

Not 100% related, but I did an electric choke conversion on my Thunderbird's Autolite 4300 carb. It had the heat tube from the exhaust manifold, and it was as simple as popping the outside plate off (with the coil) and installing an electric version, strangely enough I got from a Q-jet, lol. Ran a key'd +12v wire to it and it worked great.

I guess I am trying to do something that isn't possible. I want to be able to remove the factory carb and install something that runs decent enough but is easy to do. If I go with an electric choke it sounds like it will involve more modifications than I am willing to do to this car. I am not going to cut or drill anything out of the manifolds to get the choke to work. Heck the choke on this carb hasn't been working for over 30 years and although it take forever for it to warm up it does run when warm.

[TheSilverBuick]

A late 70's Chevy Q-jet would probably be close and have the electric choke. Smaller the engine the closer the calibration will be. Shouldn't be too hard.

[PMD1969]

Factory motor and carb for a 69 Firebird Sprint.

[TheSilverBuick]

So you have a front feed Q-jet, so need to look for a late 70's BOP Q-jet instead of a Chevy one. Pontiac had many V8's with Q-jets in the late 70's. You'd want to change the metering rods to something a little fatter to reduce the fueling, but nothing overly complicated.

This is a '79 Trans Am. See the black thing on the side of the q-jet? That one is a heat stove type, but it can be removed and via 3 screws and an electric one (even off a 2bbl) will bolt right on.


This is a generic GM electric choke. Easily replaces the heat stove part and just needs a 12v wire ran to it. This one was googled off a 307 engine.

[PMD1969]

I am looking at a 79 Buick carb that looks like that. Dumb question is if the 12v is hooked up how is it turned on and off? I need for the carb to be easily removed

[TheSilverBuick]

You need a +12v source that comes on when the key is turned on. That's it.

The design is such that the +12v feeds into the spring and heats it up at a semi-calibrated rate, as it heats up it moves and pulls off the choke. Same principle as the exhaust heat ones, just uses electricity to heat it up. When the car is off it cools down, turning the choke back on.

I replaced the exhaust thermal tube one on my T-bird because when highway driving in below freezing temperatures it would cool the tube enough to cause the choke to come back on. Didn't have that issue with the electric one. Then like the exhaust one, it's a simple twist clockwise or counterclockwise to have the choke open up more or less when cool. Places like southern California, and probably Texas there, don't need as much choke to start as places up in the mountains or where winter is quite cold.

[carbking]

Originally Posted by TheSilverBuick

You need a +12v source that comes on when the key is turned on. That's it.

The design is such that the +12v feeds into the spring and heats it up at a semi-calibrated rate, as it heats up it moves and pulls off the choke. Same principle as the exhaust heat ones, just uses electricity to heat it up. When the car is off it cools down, turning the choke back on.

I replaced the exhaust thermal tube one on my T-bird because when highway driving in below freezing temperatures it would cool the tube enough to cause the choke to come back on. Didn't have that issue with the electric one. Then like the exhaust one, it's a simple twist clockwise or counterclockwise to have the choke open up more or less when cool. Places like southern California, and probably Texas there, don't need as much choke to start as places up in the mountains or where winter is quite cold.

Silver - Ford used a metal shield in front of the plastic choke cap to prevent air from the fan doing what yours was doing.

Jon.

[TheSilverBuick]

Originally Posted by carbking

Silver - Ford used a metal shield in front of the plastic choke cap to prevent air from the fan doing what yours was doing.

Jon.

I believe it. Mine was also missing the commonly used loose cloth heat wrap on the tube. Pulled the electric choke off a GM carb in the junkyard and it fit right on and worked like a champ.

[PMD1969]

Originally Posted by TheSilverBuick

You need a +12v source that comes on when the key is turned on. That's it.

The design is such that the +12v feeds into the spring and heats it up at a semi-calibrated rate, as it heats up it moves and pulls off the choke. Same principle as the exhaust heat ones, just uses electricity to heat it up. When the car is off it cools down, turning the choke back on.

I replaced the exhaust thermal tube one on my T-bird because when highway driving in below freezing temperatures it would cool the tube enough to cause the choke to come back on. Didn't have that issue with the electric one. Then like the exhaust one, it's a simple twist clockwise or counterclockwise to have the choke open up more or less when cool. Places like southern California, and probably Texas there, don't need as much choke to start as places up in the mountains or where winter is quite cold.

Thanks SB! I can handle finding the ign 12v source so now I just need to scrape together some cash to buy a carb. I am hoping that the one I am choosing will work. I am looking at two different Buick carbs that sat on their V6 motors. The 79 is pre turbo and the 80 I think is a turbo. Problem is all of the vacuum tubes on them and which to block or even if they will work?

[TheSilverBuick]

Ah the venerable bored out 3.8 to 4.1 Buick V6 with the 4-bbl. The only thing I'd watch out for with one is that it's not one of the electric Q-jets (with two electrical plugs on it).

Block all the holes, then fine the one that gives vacuum when the throttle is cracked open and connect that to your distributor. If you have a brake boosters, it's the big port on the carb =P Everything else can be plugged.

[GTOWAGON]

Vacuume lines are easy they are either ported or part time vac or full time. You can just plug them all and then with the engine running pull the caps off one at a time and check the vacuume with a gauge full time will always have vac ported will just have vac with throttle movement

[RustFace]

I'm running an Edelbrock Performer with the electric choke connected to the ignition. Works great, though the downside is you need to fabricate new vacuum and fuel lines.