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#1
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Transmission Removal
Hello,
This is maybe more of a general question than something pertaining to my '64 Grand Prix, but I need some advice. I'm getting ready to pull the original 389 V8 along with Ol' Jim, the transmission, and I'm trying to determine the best, safest way to remove it. The car is up on jack stands now about 14" above the floor of the garage. Because of how my garage is built and I have almost a nonexistant driveway, I'm going to have to roll my car almost into the street to pull the engine. To make it faster and easier to pull the engine, I wanted to remove the Slim Jim transmission before pulling the engine. I purchased a small transmission jack and was ready to start pulling the trans when I realized that I won't have the space under the car to remove the transmission with the jack. The transmission jack at it's lowest setting is 9" tall and I would assume the tallest part of the transmission (the bell housing part) is probably a foot or more in height. That means that to barely clear the bottom of the car, my Grand Prix has to be almost 2' up in the air. I'm not sure my jack stands go that tall, and I'm concerned about my safety underneath the car with it that high up in the air. Since I'm going to pull the engine and rehab the engine compartment eventually anyways, is it better to just pull the engine and the transmission together with or without disassembling the front sheet metal (grill, fenders, bumper, core support, etc.)? Or is there a safe way for me to follow my original plan and remove the transmission from underneath? If so, what is a good, safe way to lift the car up in height to 2' or more off the ground (i.e. concrete blocks, 2x6s on jack stands, etc.)? Thank you for your help! Chris |
#2
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I've always pulled the engine and transmission as a unit. I think it's less work in the end, compared to trying to disconnect the transmission and pull it out from underneath first.
I suppose if you did want to disconnect it first you could just leave it sitting on the ground under the car, then pull the engine, then finally lift the transmission up through the now-empty engine compartment. |
The Following User Says Thank You to Stuart For This Useful Post: | ||
#3
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X2 for removing them together. It actually helps tilt it to get it in and out IMO. Not to mention accessing the upper bolts on the trans. It can be done, but it takes longer.
You will have a helluva time craning them out if the car is 2' off the floor. I would lower car to ride height before attempting. I say this b/c the times I have done it, I end up having almost 0 chain on the hook of the crane and need to get it in there as close to the manifold as possible to get the maneuverability I need to extract. Once it is on the hook is not the time to be figuring that out. I also do it with the hood & all sheet metal on the car. I have also done it a couple of times where I only have 4-6' between the front bumper and the apron of my garage. It is easier to end up close to where you want to have the motor! If you have the hood off and have a loader or something like that, then height will not matter. Do not ever use concrete blocks to support a car. Many have died this way. Use either heavy jack stands or 6X6/8X8 wood blocks.
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"If you do everything you'll win" -LBJ 13 Smiles per Gallon: 66 Bonneville wagon 66 Bonneville 2d HT - In perpetual progress |
#4
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Quote:
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#5
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Quote:
__________________
"If you do everything you'll win" -LBJ 13 Smiles per Gallon: 66 Bonneville wagon 66 Bonneville 2d HT - In perpetual progress |
#6
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Bruce: It was Arrowhead {sp} that made the elevated ramps.
Jim
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65 Catalina sedan. Allen Thomas Performance 495. KRE Heads at 310cfm ported by SD Performance, ProSystems Dominator carb on ported Victor intake, P-Dude custom grind hydraulic roller, MSD ignition, 3.50 Moser/Ford rear. F-Glass front bumper by son Rob, rear by the old man and joint effort for trunk lid. 3950# w/driver. Best of 9.5761/139 on 175 shot, 6.01 /114 in 1/8. |
#7
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to help with it ground level you could take the front wheels off and put them on skates. that would lower the front some more
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DBANDGB |
#8
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Chris,
I have opened the build thread for my swap. I left my car raised, put a floor jack under the transmission pan with a piece of plywood so I could let it tilt a t a specific rate to clear the engine crossmember. I set the crane hoist boom out to the half ton (farthest) point so I could get maximum height. With the car still raised, I had to lift the tail stock over the rad support to get it out. I used two pieces of angle iron and bolted to the intake flange on each head (check my pics in my thread). Since I pulled it yesterday, a lot of points of removal are still fresh. Like, before you put the engine back in chec your blower motor as it would be easy to change now! lol Cheers, Adam PS my 71 year old dad and I pulled it out together so you and your friend should have little problem.
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It's hard to soar like an eagle, when you're surrounded by turkeys! My wife says she'd llike my car a lot more if it wasn't mine. 64 Grand Prix 389 .030, 1.65 Scorpion Rollers, Tripower, RARE Long Branch, Custom Stainless Exhaust and mufflers, 3.90 posi 200-4R. 068 cam. |
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