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Old 12-31-2013, 01:27 PM
AZ64GP AZ64GP is offline
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Default Transmission Removal

Hello,

This is maybe more of a general question than something pertaining to my '64 Grand Prix, but I need some advice. I'm getting ready to pull the original 389 V8 along with Ol' Jim, the transmission, and I'm trying to determine the best, safest way to remove it.

The car is up on jack stands now about 14" above the floor of the garage. Because of how my garage is built and I have almost a nonexistant driveway, I'm going to have to roll my car almost into the street to pull the engine. To make it faster and easier to pull the engine, I wanted to remove the Slim Jim transmission before pulling the engine. I purchased a small transmission jack and was ready to start pulling the trans when I realized that I won't have the space under the car to remove the transmission with the jack. The transmission jack at it's lowest setting is 9" tall and I would assume the tallest part of the transmission (the bell housing part) is probably a foot or more in height. That means that to barely clear the bottom of the car, my Grand Prix has to be almost 2' up in the air. I'm not sure my jack stands go that tall, and I'm concerned about my safety underneath the car with it that high up in the air.

Since I'm going to pull the engine and rehab the engine compartment eventually anyways, is it better to just pull the engine and the transmission together with or without disassembling the front sheet metal (grill, fenders, bumper, core support, etc.)? Or is there a safe way for me to follow my original plan and remove the transmission from underneath? If so, what is a good, safe way to lift the car up in height to 2' or more off the ground (i.e. concrete blocks, 2x6s on jack stands, etc.)?

Thank you for your help!


Chris

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Old 12-31-2013, 02:01 PM
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Stuart Stuart is offline
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I've always pulled the engine and transmission as a unit. I think it's less work in the end, compared to trying to disconnect the transmission and pull it out from underneath first.

I suppose if you did want to disconnect it first you could just leave it sitting on the ground under the car, then pull the engine, then finally lift the transmission up through the now-empty engine compartment.

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Old 12-31-2013, 02:28 PM
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Deadhead Deadhead is offline
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X2 for removing them together. It actually helps tilt it to get it in and out IMO. Not to mention accessing the upper bolts on the trans. It can be done, but it takes longer.

You will have a helluva time craning them out if the car is 2' off the floor. I would lower car to ride height before attempting. I say this b/c the times I have done it, I end up having almost 0 chain on the hook of the crane and need to get it in there as close to the manifold as possible to get the maneuverability I need to extract. Once it is on the hook is not the time to be figuring that out. I also do it with the hood & all sheet metal on the car. I have also done it a couple of times where I only have 4-6' between the front bumper and the apron of my garage. It is easier to end up close to where you want to have the motor!

If you have the hood off and have a loader or something like that, then height will not matter.

Do not ever use concrete blocks to support a car. Many have died this way. Use either heavy jack stands or 6X6/8X8 wood blocks.

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Old 12-31-2013, 02:57 PM
AZ64GP AZ64GP is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deadhead View Post
X2 for removing them together. It actually helps tilt it to get it in and out IMO. Not to mention accessing the upper bolts on the trans. It can be done, but it takes longer.

You will have a helluva time craning them out if the car is 2' off the floor. I would lower car to ride height before attempting. I say this b/c the times I have done it, I end up having almost 0 chain on the hook of the crane and need to get it in there as close to the manifold as possible to get the maneuverability I need to extract. Once it is on the hook is not the time to be figuring that out. I also do it with the hood & all sheet metal on the car. I have also done it a couple of times where I only have 4-6' between the front bumper and the apron of my garage. It is easier to end up close to where you want to have the motor!

If you have the hood off and have a loader or something like that, then height will not matter.

Do not ever use concrete blocks to support a car. Many have died this way. Use either heavy jack stands or 6X6/8X8 wood blocks.
Thanks for the info, Deadhead. To clarify, I would lower the car back onto the wheels when I use the engine hoist to lift the engine out. I would not lift the engine out while the car is the air. My idea was either drop the transmission out from under the car while it is up in the air and then lower the car onto the wheels and lift the engine, or lower the car onto the wheels and then lift the engine/trans combo out at the same time with an engine hoist. I'm very concerned about safety and I don't get a good feeling using jack stands and wood blocks to lift the car 2'+ feet off the ground.

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Old 12-31-2013, 03:58 PM
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Originally Posted by AZ64GP View Post
Thanks for the info, Deadhead. To clarify, I would lower the car back onto the wheels when I use the engine hoist to lift the engine out. I would not lift the engine out while the car is the air. My idea was either drop the transmission out from under the car while it is up in the air and then lower the car onto the wheels and lift the engine, or lower the car onto the wheels and then lift the engine/trans combo out at the same time with an engine hoist. I'm very concerned about safety and I don't get a good feeling using jack stands and wood blocks to lift the car 2'+ feet off the ground.
Another member here built wooden structures to elevate his car that looked great. There are Pics in the archives somewhere. I think it was Arrowhead that did it. Other than a lift, there are not too many alternatives outside of having steel cradles made. I stack 1-2' long Pcs of 6X6, 6X8 or 8X8 laid flat under 4 places on the frame, depending on how high I need to get the car. You could not push the car over unless you ran into it at speed with a vehicle. I also have some big old jack stands that give about 18" of lift and have bases that are at least a foot across that a mechanic gave me. After having a '66 fall on me back in the 80s, I like to be sure I will not have a repeat.

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Old 12-31-2013, 04:28 PM
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66bonne 66bonne is offline
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Bruce: It was Arrowhead {sp} that made the elevated ramps.

Jim

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Old 12-31-2013, 06:49 PM
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gary bennett gary bennett is offline
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to help with it ground level you could take the front wheels off and put them on skates. that would lower the front some more

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Old 01-19-2014, 11:48 AM
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Willshire Willshire is offline
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Chris,
I have opened the build thread for my swap. I left my car raised, put a floor jack under the transmission pan with a piece of plywood so I could let it tilt a t a specific rate to clear the engine crossmember. I set the crane hoist boom out to the half ton (farthest) point so I could get maximum height. With the car still raised, I had to lift the tail stock over the rad support to get it out. I used two pieces of angle iron and bolted to the intake flange on each head (check my pics in my thread). Since I pulled it yesterday, a lot of points of removal are still fresh. Like, before you put the engine back in chec your blower motor as it would be easy to change now! lol
Cheers,
Adam

PS my 71 year old dad and I pulled it out together so you and your friend should have little problem.

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