[llwta76]

I plan on re-installing the stock valley pan cover lying around in the garage. I noticed that there is a little rust going on between the inner and outer "skin". Aside from a new replacement unit can I do something w/ this old thing ? Is there any kind of coating( epoxy ,paint ,or other such coating )that will hold up to the task w/o the danger of landing in to the internals? Since I've heard of using Rust-oleum in the lifter valley area I thought something might work in this instance. Thanks

[HWYSTR455]

You can use that naval gel for removing rust, rinse the heck out of it, and once painted, coat the inside with some oil. I know many are nervous about what gets trapped in there and having it drop in your engine, but that's never been a problem for me, done many of them. You can knock them around a little, see if anything breaks loose, but if it's just surface rust, wouldn't really worry too much. It would drop into the oil pan and get caught by the filter, if anything were to come out of it. (I may have a handful disagree with me here!)


.

[Mr. P-Body]

POR-15 makes paint and fillers that will convert the rust to a hard "shell". The biggest issue here is whether or not the rust has openned holes all the way through. It should be baked and blasted at a machine shop. Holding it up to light will tell the tale. The deep-sump (EGR provision) on yours makes a perfect place for water to get in and "sit" until it evaporates, accelerating the rust. "Pin holes" will be "filled" by the POR. Larger ones make the part "junk".

FWIW

Jim

[1967Tempest]

FWIW, I had removed the stock 400 intake to go to the aluminum Edelbrock last fall. I was looking for a way to revive my stock valley pan, since I did not want to spend the money on an aftermarket one.

Called the local shop and for 20$ he hot tanked the valley pan. Came out looking brand new. I used a body hammer to flatten the edges. Perfect seal. No leaks.

I don't have any input as to the holes. Mine was free of them. Although I did learn to tighten the water pump to the intake before the intake bolts were torques down. This aids in keeping the coolant in the motor.

Hope that helps
Dave

I wish I took a pic of the valley pan before I put it in. I will look.

[72pontiac]

what i did with mine was separate the two halves clean them and reassemble.if you dont there is stuff that wont loosen up untill the engine gets hot and then you have sh#t in your engine.my engine guy doesnt even want lint in there let alone sludge.you might paint it with glyptal available through eastwood.com

[PLAY400]

Originally Posted by 72pontiac

what i did with mine was separate the two halves clean them and reassemble.if you dont there is stuff that wont loosen up untill the engine gets hot and then you have sh#t in your engine.my engine guy doesnt even want lint in there let alone sludge.you might paint it with glyptal available through eastwood.com

See above!!!! I bought a rebuilt motor off PY for the 55 and the valley pan was hot tanked but I would have to say not well. Had a few issues with the motor and when the oil pan was dropped it looked like a field motor inside. Less than 200 miles, all bearings scratched up, crude/grit all over the place and it wasn't like that when I originally inspected it. Traced the crap back to the valley pan which still dropping out crap everytime I kick it!! Went to a aluminum pan and going to run a PVC with a baffled grommet in the valve cover as I already do in the Bird..

[vtxman]

Originally Posted by 72pontiac

what i did with mine was separate the two halves clean them and reassemble.

How did you do this?

I have not been able to get the sludge out by hot tanking only.

[screamingchief]

Originally Posted by vtxman

How did you do this?

I have not been able to get the sludge out by hot tanking only.

The way I do it is to use a spot weld remover to cut loose the two halves.

There are like 25 to 30 or so spot welds to cut,but the work goes fast after you've done a couple to get the hang of how the cutter works.

After you get them apart,grind smooth the little nubs left by the cutter bit,then when it's clean you just weld up the spots with any mig welder or such.

Agree,apply a thin coating of any thick clingy oil (like 90w gear lube) as that works best as a rust preventer,and there is no way that can damage the engine.

It'll smoke a tiny bit when welding the halves together,but nothing too serious,just take some time and dont let the piece get too hot.

Pics of a seperated pan and the spot weld remover below.

IMHO,this is the only 100% effective way to know that there is nothing trapped in there.

HTH.

[72pontiac]

the halves are spot welded together . used a spot weld cutter to separate . then weld back together . use the holes created in the one half , to spot weld back together.

[vtxman]

Thank you for the explanations and pics. I will try to source me one of those cutters and give it a try.