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mtdaniel · 09-23-2009, 08:14 PM

I'm planning on doing a motor / trans. swap to my 69 bird . If I get the car up off the floor high enough , and take the radiator out (obviously ) and take everything off the front of the motor down to the water pump , and pull the distributor out also . Will it be possible to pull the motor and transmission together , and install the new set up together ? Or is it just as easy to seperate the motor and transmission . It's a 350 HO/th350 coming out and a 400 RAIII /th400 going in . Any advice would be helpful .Thanks

mudbird · 09:12 PM

Thats pretty much how I do it. I also use a load/ leveler deal (pull intake and bolt the four chains to heads) on the shop crane and actually do it all by myself.

I have a 4-speed but we do the auto cars the same way on my buddies cars.

Oop,s forgot to say remove hood. Actually I do pull them together even if reusing the trans.

grivera · 09-23-2009, 09:28 PM

Mtdaniel, I'm glad you brought up this topic since I'll be doing the same on my '69 bird, hopefully within the next few weeks. Please excuse the hi-jack...

MUDBIRD, I was planning on using the load leveler but the intake is already installed. Will the chains not reach the holes on the front and back of heads?

mudbird · 09-23-2009, 10:00 PM

That would depend on your load/leveler I guess. On mine they would, just be harder to get the bolts out after your done. In the back with the firewall there.

I can actually angle it up in the air, roll the crane on the floor and and crank it a little each time till it is sitting on the engine mounts and the trans is held up so I can slide the cross member under it.

I have to admit it goes pretty smooth

The leveler I bought is from Harbor Freight it is a real heavy one. 4-ton s-1131
( I wanted the lighter one but it was all they had and I am glad for that now.)

It is not always necessary to pull an engine but on mine it is nice.

racegto65 · 09-24-2009, 12:30 AM

I've done this several times in my son's '69 bird with a 400 and turbo 400 trans.Actually was a little easier with the trans bolted on.

lust4speed · 09-24-2009, 12:43 AM

Last time we pulled the engine and left the trans in on my son's '67 -- what a total pain to get to the top bell housing bolts. This is one area that the GTO and big cars are much easier to get at. Next time we're definitely pulling the engine/trans as a unit.

grivera · 09-24-2009, 08:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mudbird

That would depend on your load/leveler I guess. On mine they would, just be harder to get the bolts out after your done. In the back with the firewall there.

I can actually angle it up in the air, roll the crane on the floor and and crank it a little each time till it is sitting on the engine mounts and the trans is held up so I can slide the cross member under it.

I have to admit it goes pretty smooth

The leveler I bought is from Harbor Freight it is a real heavy one. 4-ton s-1131
( I wanted the lighter one but it was all they had and I am glad for that now.)

It is not always necessary to pull an engine but on mine it is nice.

Do you know if there would be any sealing/vacuum issues if I pull the four corner bolts from intake to do the task and then replace bolts later?

mudbird · 09-24-2009, 10:21 PM

I would not think so but stranger things have happened. I was afraid to scratch up the intake with the chains sliding all over.

sixt8bird · 09-25-2009, 01:50 AM

Also, leave the cross member in. I here so many people removing it and its just extra work for nothing. Without the load leveler, you can lift the engine and the extra weight of the trans will tilt it but make sure you put something through the chain so it doesn't slide and the engine points sraight up to the moon. Once you get the trans in the engine bay and towards the grossmember , you can pretty much just lift the trans onto the cross member then lower the engine where it need sto be. I do all my engine/trans swaps by myself and don't break a sweat. Very easy.

69Customs · 09-25-2009, 02:52 PM

Don't forget to plug the rear with a yoke so you don't get tranny fluid all over!

grivera · 09-25-2009, 08:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 69Customs

Don't forget to plug the rear with a yoke so you don't get tranny fluid all over!

where does one find a dummy yoke?

sixt8bird · 09-25-2009, 09:24 PM

You can also use some plastic and a bunch of tight rubber bands and or duct tape but the old drive shaft yoke or a plastic transmission plug will work and is the cleanest.

grivera · 10-04-2009, 08:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mudbird

That would depend on your load/leveler I guess. On mine they would, just be harder to get the bolts out after your done. In the back with the firewall there.

I can actually angle it up in the air, roll the crane on the floor and and crank it a little each time till it is sitting on the engine mounts and the trans is held up so I can slide the cross member under it.

I have to admit it goes pretty smooth

The leveler I bought is from Harbor Freight it is a real heavy one. 4-ton s-1131
( I wanted the lighter one but it was all they had and I am glad for that now.)

It is not always necessary to pull an engine but on mine it is nice.

Do you mind measuring the distance from the back of the heads to your firewall? I want to know how much room I'll be working with. (69 bird)

BTW, what's odd about my crane and load leveler is that the way the hook attaches to the chain willl tend to put the engine at an angle. I need an extra link on the chain--now I gotta look for another chain....

mudbird · 10-05-2009, 11:38 AM

I found 2 3/4 to three inches behind the heads to the firewall on my car.
The heater box does come closer on the passenger side on my non-air car.

We had a late day at Rockfalls yesterday, the last muscle car day of the year. With a fine mist coming down on and off they would just get it dry and it would start to mist again. I ran the first round at 4.55 pm. I drove it out there in the dark and drove home in the dark!

mudbird · 10-05-2009, 11:54 AM

I found some pics. These were about 5 years ago when I have sort of a bed head skullet thing going on.

Out with the old in with the new.

grivera · 10-05-2009, 06:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mudbird

I found 2 3/4 to three inches behind the heads to the firewall on my car.
The heater box does come closer on the passenger side on my non-air car.

Thanks!

johnreeves · 10-05-2009, 08:25 PM

I preformed the engine swap in my 1969 Firebird with the trans/engine connected and the crossmember in place.The hoist chains were connected to the four end corner intake to head bolts I didn't have any uncommon issuses. Changed from a factory 350 to a 1971 455. Also I would pull the dist. if the car has been converted to an Hei system and reinstall after the engine is in, sometimes it can be a tight fit.

grivera · 10-05-2009, 10:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by johnreeves

I preformed the engine swap in my 1969 Firebird with the trans/engine connected and the crossmember in place.The hoist chains were connected to the four end corner intake to head bolts I didn't have any uncommon issuses. Changed from a factory 350 to a 1971 455. Also I would pull the dist. if the car has been converted to an Hei system and reinstall after the engine is in, sometimes it can be a tight fit.

It's been years since I dismantled this car- does the cross member go on the topside or bottom side of transmission?

johnreeves · 10-06-2009, 04:51 PM

The crossmember bolts to the top side of the frame and to the bottom side of the transmission. Two bolts at each location.

grivera · 10-06-2009, 06:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by johnreeves

The crossmember bolts to the top side of the frame and to the bottom side of the transmission. Two bolts at each location.

Thanks!

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