[Qball]

I was putting my 67 away and I got a little too close to the side of the garage opening and made contact. Needless to say I'm pissed as all hell. The good news is that noting got dented and I think I only received paing from the garage and didn't give any.

My question is what should I use to get this off? What technique would you recommend?







I need a beer.

[Scarebird]

I would take it to a reputable body shop - they usually have a guy who can do nice things with a buffer.

[gtorich]

Originally Posted by Qball

I was putting my 67 away and I got a little too close to the side of the garage opening and made contact. Needless to say I'm pissed as all hell. The good news is that noting got dented and I think I only received paing from the garage and didn't give any.

My question is what should I use to get this off? What technique would you recommend?







I need a beer.

I feel your pain brother...............i did the same thing back in 2001 while parking my car too close in the garage...........i got alot of the paint off just using polishing compound, the dented pass door and back 1/4 panel needed a little extra. LOL..........i know how you feel, ive been in 3 accidents in my 45 years driving...........all in the garage and driveway. Hope it comes out ok for ya.

Rich

[paint guy]

If the garage paint is latex, it should wipe off easily with xylene. If the paint on your car is base/clear, you could also use lacquer thinner. If your paint on your car is lacquer or if you don't know for sure what type of paint it is, do not use anything stronger than xylene. The polish it as necessary.

[Half-Inch Stud]

It's buff out.


Start hand-wiping some areas. See how it goes. No rubbing compound.

[chiphead]

No abrasives, no solvents, no power tools. See how much will come off with soap and water to start. Then go back to the bodyshop section and ask for advice. A professional detailer could likely get it off.

[fiedlerh]

Xylene can dissolve automotive paint. Rubbing alcohol will dissolve latex paint and probably won't harm your car's paint.

[Pontirag]

Take it to a reputable body shop like Scarebird said. then, if that does not work you can experiment

[tripower]

How many f-bombs did ya drop Mike? First i'd try wax & grease remover on the latex. If nothing try some light 1500 grit at the most, follwed by buff & polish. PM sent

[Qball]

Thanks, Norm. PM replied!

By the way, the F bombs flowed like the Colorado River!

[facn8me]

I got to RE fix a fender while doing the body work after doing that thank goodness mine was in primer

[66bonne]

I've had good luck with McQuire [sp] products in working out stuff like that. Or go by a body shop supply store {like Auto Body Express] and they can set you up with the right compounds. Been there, done that and many expletives were hurled.
Good luck.

Jim

[sts]

The only thing that I body shop or a detailer will do that you won't do is hose you down.

I'd try a finish-grit abrasive on it. There are so many wease pisses out there, I wouldn't even know where to begin. Off the top of my head, Kit Scratch Remover is on the cat'sass list of weasel piss.

Another thing I would try is to scrape it off with a razor blade, an incredible paint removal tool in which you can acheive percision results. The only catch is that you have to hold your mouth right.

If you choose to try a razor blade, the first step is set the pitch of the cutting edge of the razor blade, and once you set the pitch MAKE SURE THAT YOU DON'T USE THE OTHER SIDE BECAUSE IT WILL INSTANTLY F/IT UP!

(I use a desiginated this-side-up holder, so there is no such thing as using an upside down blade in my camp. Just a fair warning; after all, if my goal were to f/up your car, rather than trying to help you fix it, I wouldn't point out the need to set the ptich of the blade. Again, if you do not set the pitch of the blade, I guarantee it will f/up the paint the moment you barely touch it.)

The way you set the pitch is take a new this-side-up blade, and backstrop it against one of the vehicles windows. Use the same motion as you would backstrop a straight razor. I perfer to strop it against tempered glass than laminated because the tempereds seems to dress it better. The pitch angle isn't that critical because the process depends on the angle you scrape the surface. As for a pitch angle, 15' to 30' will be fine.

Of course, start with one of the lowest scrapes. Gently graze the surface at various pressure/angles to start to get a feel where your mouth should be. Take your time, and if you are of average intellegence, you will be able to get a feel for what you need to do without a single scratch in the clear as you fish for the sweet spot. Once you have your mouth set correctly, it may roll off like scraping a sticker off of glass.

You might also want to try some glass cleaner as lubricant. Other liquids will work but I like glass cleaner because of no residue.

[Pontirag]

Originally Posted by sts

The only thing that I body shop or a detailer will do that you won't do is hose you down.

thats a very generalized statement,


Frankly I would rather pay too much and get the job done right than pay to little or ....use razor blades...really? razor blades?

which shop or detailer in his area will hose him down? you have experience with all of them so which ones? and since your not a shop or detailer what is the basis for your experience?

[Scarebird]

Collision shops this time of year are pretty slow - they may cut you a deal. Also, if this was insured by Hagerty, Grundy, etc. talk to them.

[paint guy]

Originally Posted by fiedlerh

Xylene can dissolve automotive paint. Rubbing alcohol will dissolve latex paint and probably won't harm your car's paint.

Aromatic solvents, including xylene will not harm any clearcoat paint that is properly cross-linked and cured. Nor will they attack lacquer. Also will not harm acrylic enamel with a hardener. Will not harm acrylic enamel without a hardener as long as it is cured (month or two since application should be sufficient). please post what type of properly cured automotive paint you have been able to dissolve using xylene.

[6t7goat]

Lots of good suggestions. Really depends on what type of paint it is. If its BC/CC wax and grease remover will probably take it right off. I have cleaned up a lot off cars with similar damage but they were all bc/cc paint. I will start with the least aggressive option 1st and depending on the result move to the next aggressive in the line. for instance 1st I will use a water based wax and grease remover then a Cleaner/polish like 3m if that doesnt get it I will move up to 3m compound and finally if the clear is scratched I will wet sand it with some 1500 or 2000 and then buff and polish it. If you are not comfortable with sanding or buffing take it to a pro or you could do some serious damage. Really need to know what the car was painted with before attempting to repair it. I feel for you.

[GT182]

Do not use abrasives! They'll cause more problems and the F bombs will really flow. That I do know.

A mild rubbing compound applied by hand will remove it if water doesn't. I've done it with compund and it works fine. If you have no dents, then you'll be home free. Just wax it when all all the white paint is gone.

[Qball]

Wow. Great suggestions. Thank you, all, so much!!!! I believe the paint is a base coat/clear coat. I'll have to confirm with my dad as he had it painted back in the 90's. I'll try to see what comes off with soap and water first then go from there.

Man, this is a great forum! Cheers, everyone!

[cutrone]

Mr. Clean Magic Eraser ....

If that don't touch it , wet sand with 1000 grit then a little 1500 & buff .
10 minute job ..

good luck.