[gtorich]

Ok, finally got my manifold on today..........im wondering what the torque specs are doing this, not that i can get a wrench there anyways...........you look up stuff and you see on tin indian, wallace racing, rons whatever page, butler............you get a different number for each on the manifold to heads, and for the pulling the manifold forward.................cant understand why theres a problem here..........lol

Im assuming 25 lbs is about right.............i did a criss cross pattern , not sure that is right or not, couldnt find the correct way...............if anyone has a link to how the bolt pattern goes for tightening let me know.

On the bolt that pulls the manifold im at pretty snug and a little more, about 10-12 i assume

On the manifold bolts im pretty snug and about a half turn.............but on wallaces site it says 40, im assuming this is for iron heads

Thanks for any help

Rich

[steve25]

The factory calls for 40, but 35 will do fine for the 3/8” bolts,

just recheck them after the heat up and full cool down session.

Just to be clear the long bolt that pulls the manifold nose up to the water pump gets torqued first

[gtorich]

Originally Posted by steve25

The factory calls for 40, but 35 will do fine for the 3/8” bolts,

just recheck them after the heat up and full cool down session.

Just to be clear the long bolt that pulls the manifold nose up to the water pump gets torqued first

Thanks Steve...........i saw that for the factory set up..........i was assuming that was for iron heads............i see endelbrock call for 25lbs on their heads...............i have the kre heads................seeing you can only torque a few bolts on the manifold anyways your going by feel.................then they say if using anit-seize reduce it some.............dont understand why this is confusing to people........lol............just wondering what others with the kre heads are using for a spec.

Rich

[gtorich]

The torque spec for the manifold bolts on KRE aluminum heads is 65-70 ft.-lbs.................this is from the AI guy on the internet...............that cant be right.

Rich

[b-man]

Just snug them down like any old-school mechanic would.

Never in my life have I used a torque wrench on an intake manifold.

They’re aluminum threads and an aluminum intake so don’t go crazy with the torque. Snug ‘em down again later after a heat cycle or two.

Don’t overthink it.

[krisr]

Originally Posted by b-man

Don’t overthink it.

This.

[Sirrotica]

50 years plus working on Pontiac Stratostreak V8s, and I've never torqued an intake either. Tight enough is perfect.

Ideally they would like you to use longer bolts when tightening fasteners into an aluminum thread, but I doubt that's going to be possible in this instance.

When GM first started making aluminum head castings they were used a lot by dirt track racers, and they also stripped them out by being too heavy handed. Their were a lot of heli coils installed by those that over torqued them.

Just remember you're going into aluminum, so less than cast iron will work. After some heat cycles, try them again to see if any have lost any tension. After 2 tightening's, you should be fine.

[Gach]

Yeah 30-40 lbs, hand tightening with say 1/2 - 9/16 wrench thats 5-6” long works out to be just about 30-40 lbs torque. You get them hand tight with wrench then about 2-3 haft turns. You’ll know because that, takes allot more Force to turn that wrench. Every time I’ve check with torque wrench after tightening. So yeah 40-45 lbs. The tightening sequence is start with middle bolts crisscrossing to both sides. You’ll be good then check them after you’ve done a heat cycle like B-man and others said.

Oh and the long bolt from timing cover to manifold tightening it and looking down manifold bolts holes making sure they’ll still line up.

[b-man]

As Lou has pointed out with most any big casting like an intake or cylinder head you always tighten them starting in the middle and sort of cris-cross back and forth working towards the outer ends of the casting.

This way you flatten the middle first and then flatten it outwards towards the ends, so as not to get a ‘wrinkle’ in the casting when tightening. It’s usually tightened in a spiral pattern looking from the top, but whenever possible follow the factory torque sequence.

On intakes always start all the bolts first and very, very lightly snug the 10 bolts at the heads, then tighten the front long bolt (carefully). You’re creating a seal between the timing cover and intake here, so get the surfaces together completely. Then start tightening the 10 bolts at the heads (or 12 bolts if you belong to the 1964 and earlier Pontiac engine club like myself).

You’re good.

[Gach]

Very good idea getting intake bolts started first

[Dragncar]

Done by feel. You can not get a torque wrench on the bolts on the insides of the runners anyway. Just do it evenly in steps, side to side, middle out like B Man said..
With a Victor I had to use 1 1/4" long header bolts with the small 3/8" 12 point heads. Pretty tight fit.

[steve25]

That's right Rich, that 65 to 70 is for the rocker arm studs not the Intake to head bolts.

[grivera]

Originally Posted by steve25

Just to be clear the long bolt that pulls the manifold nose up to the water pump gets torqued first

Did you do this first?

[gtorich]

Originally Posted by grivera

Did you do this first?

Yep, did that first..........not the first time i put this manifold on, just was wondering what the torque was...........trying to do things halfway right now..........instead of just winging it.................i did email kre just to see what they had to say, no answer yet.

Rich

[gtorich]

Just got a call from kre.................said about 25-30 lbs, good to go................there now i know, thats about what i have, good and snug and about a 1/4 turn more.........thanks again guys.

Rich

[Gach]

Your getting there hopefully you’ll be firing that baby up soon.

[blueghoast]

Originally Posted by Dragncar

Done by feel. You can not get a torque wrench on the bolts on the insides of the runners anyway. Just do it evenly in steps, side to side, middle out like B Man said..
With a Victor I had to use 1 1/4" long header bolts with the small 3/8" 12 point heads. Pretty tight fit.

Thats what I use, good advise.

GT

[rasilverbird]

E heads are 25 ft-lbs