[455conv]

Someone must have been through this. I just put in a new 455 in my 70 GTO. It has the Performer RPM manifold. My throttle cable is now too long. Is their a way to shorten it or are there aftermarket cables that work better? Thanks.

[455conv]

Someone must have been through this. I just put in a new 455 in my 70 GTO. It has the Performer RPM manifold. My throttle cable is now too long. Is their a way to shorten it or are there aftermarket cables that work better? Thanks.

[Tim Corcoran]

Performance Years has a throttle cable that is universal. The clevis end has multiple holes and just use the hole that feels good.

Tim Corcoran

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65 LeMans 11.13@120
going into the 10's
this winter

[jyeager]

I just used my original throttle cable bracket and bolted it onto the manifold and bent it to fit properly.

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[Ccass]

Tim, Thanks for the plug, but the "universal" cable will only fit the 64-67 body style. I'm afraid the bending of the bracket is currently the easiest solution.

[Skip Fix]

On my 78 TA using the Torker II I had to redrill the Edelbrock bracket base as it positioned the factory bracket too far back. Same bracket worked fine on the Torker as the base bolts up different in the runners. May be able to do the same thing with the RPM.

[Held for Ransom]

You also have to be using the Edelbrock #8015 bracket, which is for the 68-71 Pontiacs. Interesting question, how different are the '72 A-body cables from the earlier years? Would it be easier to find parts to convert over, than fabricating the old bracket into place?

[This message has been edited by Held for Ransom (edited 03-13-2001).]

[JC455]

Dude,
I use a Lokar cable on my 68 LeMans. I had to replace the old (Lokar) cable this past weekend because I broke it. This was no fault of the cable- I rigged it up at the time and it eventually wore through the strands.
The Lokar cable's totally adjustable on the mounting end (both ends) and has an adjustment near the carb end to take the slack out-or put some in. I got a stainless steel braided cable and did the following:
I got another gas pedal assem. for a 68 and went to work. I cut, bent and reshaped the thing. I heated the end and hammered it flat, then drilled the hole for Lokar's clevis (it swivels). This was done to allow a perfect match up of the cable and clevis (as little friction as possible). I retained the TH400 kickdown switch as well.
I measured the carb arm's movement-1.5 inches- then figured out where I wanted WFO to take place on the pedal assem. I locked the assembly in position (I just pushed it to the floor and held it there with a small piece of pipe- I figure that this way I can't bind the carb arm from over travel- Oklahome throttle stop [img]/infopop/emoticons/icon_wink.gif[/img] ) and removed the return spring from my carb. I open the carb to full throttle and measured how long the cable should be. I cut the cable and secured it in the carb arm mount with the set screw. Everything was remounted and checked for clearance.
It's kinda nice to have a carb that opens all the way again.
The cable costs 31.95 from Summit plus handling charge.
Good luck!-



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John