[Greg Reid]

I can't make sense of this Quadrajet number...
17054905

[Kenth]

17054905 is a 1968-69 Pontiac SERVICE REPLACEMENT 350-400-428 carb.
Pri jets #73, pri rods #41, sec rods BE and power piston spring 7037305.

[Cliff R]

Technically it replaces 1968 models as it doesn't use the same primary POE system as the 1969-1970 non Ram-Air units and still uses the early hinge pin location and large float like other pre-1969 models. Even so it will work fine on the later engines and they made them in pretty decent numbers as I've had a lot of them in the shop over the years.......Cliff

[Baron Von Zeppelin]

That SR date is most likely 1977 (301st day)
Doubt they still made them in 1987 , but thats just a reasonable guess.

It has the 70-up style choke counterweight system (metal , not plastic)

[unruhjonny]

to build upon what Kenth and Cliff shared;
I have recorded that this service replacement has the following applications:
1968 400/428 ALL & 1969 350/400/428 ALL

I do not have any indication of a '906 application carb, but have the following non standard application carbs recorded (all start with 1705);
4905, 4907, 4908, 4909, 4911, 4913, 4914, 4948, 3910, 8394

[77 TRASHCAN]

Wow, that carb number did not look like it went with that carb...

[Greg Reid]

Thanks Kenth, Cliff and the rest. I knew from looking at it that it was earlier than '74. I just couldn't figure that number since all info I have is that 1705 is for '76 to '79 carbs.
I can't even remember where I got it. For a while, the Q jets were pretty cheap so I have several good cores and this is one of the cleaner ones.
Actually Cliff, it appears to be the same carb design as the one on the cover of your fantastic book. By the way, I just finished rebuilding the '74 carb on my '68 GTO using one of your recipes... I only had to adjust the mixture screws 1/4 of a turn. It idles and throttles up like fuel injection. ZERO hesitation...

I do not have any indication of a '906 application carb, but have the following non standard application carbs recorded (all start with 1705);
4905, 4907, 4908, 4909, 4911, 4913, 4914, 4948, 3910, 8394

Look a little closer...mine is 4905, not 4906...so you do have it.

[Cliff R]

Thanks Greg. Add the 17054910 to your list, 73-74 Super Duty auto carb Service Replacement, the 1911 is the manual trans version.

I've reached a point with this sort of thing that I spend about 4-6 hours a day doing tech and selling custom Q-jet rebuild kits with tuning parts to get them up to par for what folks are doing. I find this better than standing at the work bench all day long rebuilding and restoring them so I quit taking in new work back in July. Going to get everything that is here now finished up, then may take a few carb in here and there, but for the most part will be selling rebuild kits, high performance and tuning parts instead.

They started putting Torx head screw on SR carbs at some point, probably around 1979-1980 as we see a few come in here using them as well as quite a few Marine units starting around that time period........Cliff

[Kenth]

Pontiac Service Replacement Quadrajets from the Delco Carburetor book:

17054905 1968-69 350, 400, 428 M/T&A/T
17054906 1968-69 250 M/T&A/T
17054907 1971 400, 455 M/T&A/T
17054908 1970 400,455 CALIF. M/T&A/T
17054909 1972 455 HI.PERF. M/T&A/T
17054910 1973 455 S.D. M/T&A/T
17054911 1974 455 S.D. M/T&A/T
17054912 1974 350 M/T&A/T
17054913 1973-74 400, 455 M/T&A/T
17054914 1975-76 400 FEDERAL A/T
17054915 1975 350 M/T&A/T
17054947 1972 455 A/T
17054948 1972 400 M/T&A/T

[unruhjonny]

/\ thanks!!

I don't have any new enough books to list this!

[Cliff R]

Here's a good reference for Pontiac carburetors by year and part number:

http://www.teufert.net/pontiac/carbs.htm

[Greg Reid]

Well, I had forgotten about that site Cliff. I used to check it often before I knew about the John Wallace Pontiac site. Quite a bit of other info in the root address of that link. http://www.teufert.net/
I'll keep an eye out for the SD service replacement numbers but I don't usually get that lucky. I'll most likely be getting more kits from you in the future. I may rebuild this one and I have a couple of others that are pretty good cores.
Kenth, thank you so much. That's good info.

[Half-Inch Stud]

Originally Posted by Cliff R

Thanks Greg. Add the 17054910 to your list, 73-74 Super Duty auto carb Service Replacement, the 1911 is the manual trans version.

I've reached a point with this sort of thing that I spend about 4-6 hours a day doing tech and selling custom Q-jet rebuild kits with tuning parts to get them up to par for what folks are doing. I find this better than standing at the work bench all day long rebuilding and restoring them so I quit taking in new work back in July. Going to get everything that is here now finished up, then may take a few carb in here and there, but for the most part will be selling rebuild kits, high performance and tuning parts instead.

They started putting Torx head screw on SR carbs at some point, probably around 1979-1980 as we see a few come in here using them as well as quite a few Marine units starting around that time period........Cliff

Hows the Pub...?!

[Cliff R]

Closed it down last January. Not making enough money to justify the nights, holidays and weekends it took to run it.......Cliff

[Greg Reid]

Originally Posted by Cliff R

Closed it down last January. Not making enough money to justify the nights, holidays and weekends it took to run it.......Cliff

I can sympathize with that Cliff... Had a restaurant for 5 years while I was still working full time. It was a killer.
By the way, have you considered just doing the recoloring if you're sent to bare parts?

Sent from my moto g(6) play using Tapatalk

[Greg Reid]

While I have you guys' attention, I'm having an issue with the carb I just rebuilt and was bragging on. Runs great but the airhorn gasket is getting very wet. I've have taken it back down twice and can't figure out why it's overflowing.
Float is set 1/4" down and there is no trash interfering with the needle. The only change is that the seat is just a little larger than stock and I replaced the metal float that was in it with Cliff's, which is a bit smaller. Could the fuel pump (same mechanical pump that was there before the rebuild) be overcoming the fulcrum action of a smaller float? Do I need to go to factory float setting of 13/32"?
I've rebuilt quite a few Rochesters and never had this issue.
Any ideas?

["QUICK-SILVER"]

How well does the top fit without a gasket?

Warped top and/or warped main bodies can seep fuel from slosh no matter where you set the float.

Had a few problamatic wet carbs that I disabled ignition power and spun the engine with the top off the carb to see what was going on. Of course someone has to keep their finger on the hinge pin with a q-jet. Or use a flat piece of metal and clamp it down with the front screw.

Clay

[Greg Reid]

Top was warped a bit before the rebuild but I was able to straighten it. l like the idea of taking the top off if it gets that far.
Fingers crossed. I reset the float to factory setting and ground about 1/4" off the bottom of the baffle to maybe compensate. Also polished the gasket surface of the brass seat.
I just ran it up to temp, adjusted mixtures, set the choke up and no wetness so far. Yesterday when I ran it it was moist before it even came up to temperature.

[Greg Reid]

Still getting the gasket wet. Went back to a larger float, still wet. I may have to go back to the smaller seat opening
Can't think what else to try as far as parts. If that doesn't work, I'm going to have to rig up something to check how much pressure I'm pushing and how much it takes to unseat the needle. Top off as Clay suggested.


Sent from my moto g(6) play using Tapatalk

[Cliff R]

You are probably chasing a problem with things that are unrelated to it. If the gasket it getting wet and "wicking" some or you are seeing some fuel on the edges in the front of the carb the repair is going to be getting a better fit between the part so they clamp the gasket harder.

If the N/S weren't doing it's job you'd be seeing some flooding and things not working well.

This assumes the float is set correctly. There is always some "splash" with a carburetor as the fuel enters and the vehicle is driven, if at any point or time the fuel level were too high you'ld the engine would certainly let you know about it.

For about 99 percent of the carbs I do here, in lieu of trying to "unwarp" main castings and airhorns I simply very lightly machine the front portion of the airhorn on a big bench mounted belt sander just a little flatter than the main body and let it re-conform to it when things are tightened up. Combine that with the better .015" main body to airhorn gasket we supply in our SR kits 99.9 percent of the time the carb will stay dry and not "wick" or leak at the gasket between the center screw and two bolt that attach it to the intake......Cliff