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#1
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Replacement fuel line?
So my 70 TA has a hacked fuel line from the pump to the carb with a piece of rubber hose in between.
I wanna replace it with a proper hardline, but not sure which one to order I see several available, but they all seem to have different bends (could be just the angle of the photos) Not sure if the fuel pump I have is correct, but I assume the line was cut for a reason. Is the fuel outlet where it's supposed to be? |
#2
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Order FN327 from our host Ames . This is pretty close and comes out partially over the pass side of the thermostat housing and straight into front of carb. Last I knew these were around 24 dollars.
There are a couple different angles on the output of replacement fuel pumps. Yours "looks correct" and faces right direction.
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"The Future Belongs to those who are STILL Willing to get their Hands Dirty" .. my Grandfather |
#3
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I would recommend you use the mild (OEM) steel line as opposed to the stainless steel one. The stainless is too hard and won't "crush" when tightened, resulting in leaks at the carb fitting and fuel pump. I had a stainless steel line on my 70 Formula for a while, but wound up replacing it with an OEM style line. That solved my leak problem.
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#4
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I agree, you don't need stainless besides it so hard to work with.. Just get one that looks close. That's a very important place to have steel tubing...
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#5
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You should redo your PCV vacuum source while you're at it.....
The vacuum port that you are using now will cause cylinder #1 to run lean all the time. That port is only meant to run the vacuum pods on your factory air cleaner base.
Get the correct PCV fitting that fits in that vacuum port that is plugged with the pipe plug just in front of and under your carbs fuel inlet. https://www.inlinetube.com/products/inl11220 That fitting is designed to meter the fumes from the PCV to both planes of the intake so neither side runs too lean. It will make a difference. |
The Following User Says Thank You to Joe's Garage For This Useful Post: | ||
#6
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Thanks for the info
Happen to have a pic showing the proper routing of all the hoses? |
#7
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I don't have an exact pic, but here are several from the internet.
The PCV fitting is tightened until it 'aims' towards the PCV valve (red circles in the pics). There are two different fittings - the squared-off brass one and the rounded-off metal one. I'm pretty sure they were used interchangeably.
Factory hose had the spring clamps on both ends - fitting and PCV valve. The small fitting (blue circles) had a vacuum hose that went to one side of the thermostatic switch in the air cleaner base. Then there was a hose that went from the other side of the switch to the actuator pod on the air cleaner snorkel. I don't have a pic of this, and in one of the attached pics, the fitting is replaced by a pipe plug. You can see this smaller vacuum hose on the pic of the 1969 Judge engine. It goes from that smaller fitting to the thermo switch in the ram air shroud base, and then from the switch to the two pods on the hood plate that control which air is directed to the carb, based on engine temps. On your TA, it would be routed in a similar manner, but you should only have one snorkel on the air cleaner for the hose to attach to. There are no clamps on this vacuum hose. I'm curious where the small hose that Tees into your choke pull off goes to? I'm presuming your TA is manual transmission, so the only other small hose would be to the distributor vacuum advance can, via the TCS solenoid. That should attach at the rear of the carb (yellow circle in the last pic) where the power brake booster hooks up. Our TA is a 1974 SD455 so it's an entirely different setup. |
#8
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Quote:
Ordered one from Ames a while back, but I only get to see her every 6 months, so just getting around to it now Unfortunately, the carb inlet I have is the wrong size Heading back to NY this weekend and it looks like rain for the rest of the week, so it'll have to wait until my next trip down. That being said, after eyeballing it, it looks to be a tight fit. Before I kill myself trying, can it actually be snaked through without removing the alternator? Also installed a new PCV fitting (port plug it had was a little b!tc# to remove) |
#9
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it looks to me as though your fuel filter housing has the wrong end.
__________________
1970 Formula 400 Carousel Red paint on Black standard interior A no-engine, no-transmission, no-wheel option car. Quite likely one of few '70 Muncie three speed Formula 400's left. 1991 Grand Am: 14.4 @ 93.7mph (DA corrected) (retired DD, stock appearing) 2009 Cobalt SS: 13.9 @ 103mph (current DD; makes something north of 300hp & 350ft/lbs) |
#10
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Quote:
Already contacted Cliff about getting a replacement shipped out, but unfortunately, I'll be heading back to NY this weekend, so the install will have to wait until my next trip down https://cliffshighperformance.com/pr...filter-housing |
#11
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Ok, so I've been putting this off for far too long.
On my last trip down back in June, I didn't have a chance cause of all the rain https://youtube.com/shorts/c_OW8n_XQ...XT8fdj9fSDIryX Heading down again this weekend, so hoping to get it done. Question: Is it possible to snake the line through without having to remove accessories? (Alt, PS pump, etc.) |
#12
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I believe it's possible, but if my memory serves me, you have to weasel it behind the power steering and alternator - the former is the real pain...
__________________
1970 Formula 400 Carousel Red paint on Black standard interior A no-engine, no-transmission, no-wheel option car. Quite likely one of few '70 Muncie three speed Formula 400's left. 1991 Grand Am: 14.4 @ 93.7mph (DA corrected) (retired DD, stock appearing) 2009 Cobalt SS: 13.9 @ 103mph (current DD; makes something north of 300hp & 350ft/lbs) |
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