First rule of major hood alignment in my shop is the latch is not installed. Once the hood and fenders fit, you bring the latch to the hood, not fight and build around where the latch wants the hood to go. If your latch is out and your hood sits to one side, there are a couple of ways to change that. You can try loosening one bolt (let's say the upper) to the hood on the side where the gap is wide, then move to the other side of the hood. Loosen the opposite (lower bolt) and put sideways pressure (shove) on the hood. While you have that pressure against the hood, tighten that lower bolt. If you have a helper, they can tighten the loose bolt on the other side. This method works awesome on trunk lids, occasionally on hoods. If this fails, loosen the fender bolts directly behind the hood hinges on both sides and have someone support the front of the hood. Then give it a firm but controlled sideways shove near the back, above the hinge area while a helper tightens those two bolts.
Make sure the rear corner of your hood is well above fender height when fully opened so that you don't scar your fender top!
Like mentioned above, a stiff seal can cause the hood the stand up at the back. I take advantage of the hinge-to-fender bolt adjustments to overcome that. You said you have room for movement at the forward bolt, so no harm in trying that. Just be sure that the hinge to fender bolt does not have a washer! That will limit the amount of slot that you can use because the shoulder of the washer hits the inside edge of the hinge. The correct bolt is flanged and a smaller diameter.
Be aware that any time you rotate a hood hinge to bring a hood corner down, it moves the hood back on that side. Therefore, your hood is out of square with the opening and might hit the front corner of your fender on the side you rotate down. If rotating to raise the rear corner, it throws the opposite front corner closer to the fender. I’ve watched guys fixated on looking at the rear when lowering the hood, and not see it about to land on a fender at the front.
Another thing that some miss when building a front end is the need for shims at the upper cowl bolt. Shims are ugly, so some tend to leave them out when they can. Too few shims and the rear hood to fender corner gap may be tight, even though it fits the door perfectly. That can also make the back of the fender "dive". You have 3 bolts in that area, all are 3/8" with a 9/16" head. The upper (on top), the forward (behind the hinge pointing towards the firewall) and the upper jam bolt, hidden by the door. If you make sure the door jamb bolt stays tightened, loosen the other two that I mentioned and pry the fender upward, right in front of the upper bolt. Slip (another?) 1/8" shim in there and lower the hood to see if you’ve gained anything.
Way too much info, I know. I get carried away sometimes…
