I've seen the plastic throw out bearings, lol. I don't use them.
Also noticed some wheel bearings are showing up like this now, with plastic cages surrounding the needles. I don't use those either, and check them in the box while at the counter before I leave.
On the clutch deal that Jim was talking about, if you stick with the Luk stock replacement stuff you probably won't need to concern yourself with some of the points that Jim brings up. But he does mention some things you really need to pay attention to. In my case, the McLeod, using a street/strip version, diaphragm clutch, sprung hub disc, and basic organic material on a full face disc, all the things you pay attention to on what is in our case a full on street car with 1-2 track trips a year, should be perfectly fine. But the clutch is just a bit too much on the stiff side, which I'm actually surprised about.
The blame for the chatter setting in with so little miles, I lean more towards the terrain we have to drive in (hilly) and the effective gear ratio because I've run into this scenario before with other brand clutches. I just didn't expect it with a 9.64 effective ratio on a fuel injected engine with a dead smooth idle and gobs of torque in a very light 3100 lbs car. So a rear gear change is being done to help that area, and likely another clutch swap because we just really don't like the somewhat stiff pedal feel that shouldn't be there with a little 10.5" diaphragm clutch. Even I complain and I squat 500 lbs. If I'm sitting at a light more than a minute, I feel like I have to pop it in neutral. My son was stuck in a traffic jamb the other day and he came in the house complaining lol. So not all these diaphragm clutches are created equal.
I have to pay very close attention to this for my wife's daily driver which is also a stick. She absolutely needs a comfortable clutch. I can push that clutch pedal down with my hand using 3 fingers. She's happy I'm happy sort of deal
