[HWYSTR455]

Like I've said for years, IF you are doing a new system, no matter what your power level, at least -8 or 1/2 for feed and return. That way you will never have to do it again.

Most aluminum 'fuel' hard line is .035 wall and handles 250psi. There used to be some vendors of AN stuff offer hard line in dash sizes, which ensured the inner diameter, not sure they still do, been a while since I looked.

.500 (1/2") - wall thickness of .035 = .465 . That will move considerable fuel, so should really be no concern of inside diameter.

Summit used to sell steel hard line, I know they sell aluminum and stainless still, but haven't looked for steel since aluminum is fine.

There use to be some concern over puncture risk for aluminum, from like rocks and stuff, but unless you're doing pikes peak, think it a non-issue. If there are areas you're concerned about that seem to be exposed, you can use the spiral line covers. (Rock guard)

AN tube sleeves and nuts are very inexpensive, and easy to use. A 37 degree flaring tool, maybe a debur tool, a nice cutter, and done.

If you're in a tight spot on the car and want to do it while on the car, you can use compression fittings, which work pretty well. But they are somewhat cost prohibitive.

The Eastwood deburring tool is worth the $35, deburs inside & outside of the line in seconds:

https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-tu...ring-tool.html

Vinyl coated adel clamps are a nice way to go, just remember not to overtighten them, the line should be able to move slightly in the clamp:

https://www.amazon.com/Vinyl-Coated-...zcF9hdGY&psc=1

Try to use AN fittings instead of less expensive JIC stuff, those can be frustrating to thread at times and sometimes leak.


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