Quote:
Originally Posted by JLMounce
Agreed with OCM and Formula that the way to do this right and once is to go with the Tanks Inc setup.
The first gen F-body tank is a nice piece that looks factory. Don't skim on the fuel sending unit though, spend the little extra for the floatless sender, or for even more accuracy, get one of the fancy LiDar senders. -8 feed and return as stated.
I run my -8 lines along the passenger side of the car, in the same location as the original fuel line/s. You can either do as Formula mentions if you want to try and retain a more stock look, or you can also run the lines up the firewall to the regulator. Yet another option is to run the regulator near the tank and run a single line forward. Lots of options and none of them are predominantly right or wrong.
This isn't the cheapest way to do it, but if you go with something like a Walbro 255, you'll support over 600 hp, won't run the bowls dry at WOT and should you ever decide to move to EFI of some kind, all you need to do is change the spring in the regulator.
|
Regarding the regulator near the tank, is that a good idea? Always read the regulator should be as close to the carb as possible for best results..not sure why but seems to be what most people say/do.
A friend that owns a body body shop and does high dollar builds & LS swaps in classic cars likes to use the factory corvette type regulator that mounts back by the tank, very clean install and only 1 line for feed to the EFI/carb.
I am considering going tanks inc to replace my robbmc set up that works great overall but has some random cut out issues on low 11sec runs with a Q-jet, I have a nice robbmc regulator that can work for efi or carb, just not sure of best place to mount it. I like FJs idea of mounting by the stock fuel pump but wont that contribute to heat soak more than being up closer to the carb?