well well well. where do i start. let's start here: i pulled the motor today, it went like a charm, i actually have the car up on four jackstands, front a teeny bit lower. i undid the whole topside when it was on the ground, then jacked it up to do the tranny, etc. i removed the driveline this time, put a floor jack under the tranny, unbolted the cross member, and moved the whole thing back off the dowels. the motor came straight up and out, no sweat, although it was 6 feet in the air to clear the nose! it made removing the oil pan nice, standing, with it at eye level.
the pan looked great, no junk in it for the first time, i am convinced my thrust was torn up everytime by the eagle. this ohio looks good. the bearings look great, always a little wear on them, but nothing deal breaking. pulled the rod caps,(after the timing cover and chain...) had to move the crank about back and forth a bit to get all eight undone. unbolted the mains, then out she came. crank looks great, thrust bearing looks great. the motor looks awesome inside, totally happy there. now on to the seal in question.......
i don't really need to explain anything. take a look at the pics showing the seal. i could swim through those gaps. i am surprised it didn't leak worse! so, definite bone to pick, took lots of pics, i have the original seal with me. the mating edges don't even line up. they are ground at an angle, meaning the back half would touch before the lip portion. and to boot?
there is no crush at all. i measured it out of the cap/block, the id was 3.355. it measured 3.400 in the block installed the way it was. that's .045 gap! no question why it leaked........
there are pics of the new bop fitted, last pic, and one out. (next post.....)it has a much thinner inner wire, less than half of the original. maybe .050? the lip portion is like this: it has swirl marks, like threads, that start at one side, and screw into the inside, towards the motor, so it literally swirls the oil back into the motor. the old seal just had ribs, all going the same direction, where this one actually has lines in a thread pattern. it goes from one half to the other side, 180 degrees, so it is blank where it meets the other half, and starts over. i tried to catch in on film, but it was hard. look at it in the installed position, and the one laying down.....
so, i had the rope, i had the new bop, and a choice needs to be made. me and my uncle thought that if it were installed PROPERLY, that the new one would work. so, i kissed one side until i got my crush height, then kissed the other half on the same side until i got my crush height, and i installed it in the block and cap, rtv'ing the anti rotation holes, and it in,(just a light layer in the groove, just to take up any low spots.....). if it looks good tomorrow, i am going with it. i told myself rope it was, but i am going to be the guinea pig for the new bop, just for my man wade, as he sent it to me for free, and i feel like helping the community with a test bed for this new seal. i have a real good system for removing this damn engine by now, so what the hell........
okay, more details tomorrow, after i make a move, and get the bottom end sealed up. oh, what would the torque specs be for studded mains, and eagle rods? i don;t know them, and it would help me finish the bottom end up tomorrow.
thank you in advance...
davey