Quote:
Originally Posted by Formulajones
I did this, I guess it's been about 22 years ago now. I didn't use a spacer for the rear main, simply had it welded up and re-machined. Still running fine to this day.
Any competent crank grinder can do this work, it's nothing special. The problem these days seems to be finding a shop that even has a crank grinding machine, and someone that knows how to operate it.
Most machine shops don't even have a crank machine, they are expensive and take up a lot of space, then they have to pay someone to run it all day, so they find it more productive to send the cranks out to someone else.
Not many here in Arizona that even do cranks. Depends on where you are located, there are only a couple that I even trust. A good one that Paul used got out of the business, not even sure where he's having crank work done now.
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As a retired ASE Master Engine Machinist( and crank grinder) I wholeheartedly agree. The most critical part of the process is welding the thrust flange and regrinding it to the correct width. IMO, a nodular factory 3.25 main crank that been correctly welded, re-cut to the proper width and nitrided is superior to a Chinese cast crank of dubious metallurgical origin