Quote:
Originally Posted by bhill86
Tom, I seem to recall you saying previously to lightly glass bead the disc. What do you mean by that. Don’t have a blaster but I’m going to pick up a small one and some media to give this a try. Only thing it’ll cost me is some time and some extra time if it happens to not work and I need to pull it all apart again.
Why does this happen with the resin? I haven’t seen any other reference to this occurring.
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Learned this from the Engineers at the Manual Transmission plant years ago.
The resin is used to bond the clutch disc material together when the part is created.
The resin gets hot after installation (of a new disc and guys beating on the parts)
and puts a film of resin on the surface of the disc and the flywheel and pressure plate.
Course the hot rod guys speed up the process of the resin boiling off the disc
material and on clutch parts. Then the clutch starts slipping and chatter.
So they remove the disc and install another part or parts. Same deal again. Reason why is no one is paying attention to
why the parts were slipping.
But the fix is to clean off the pressure plate and flywheel of resin and use a glass bead cabinet to "glass bead machine" the disc with walnut shells, etc to remove the excess resin on the clutch surface.
NOW THE DISC HAS BEEN HEAT CYCLED and the excess resin boiled off and the parts are all clean and fresh for re-installation.
I have run (and beat on HARD) the clutch parts on my GTO with no slippage whatever for years.
I will be glad to take any 11" clutch discs that Pontiac guys remove and then install new parts again.
Tell me what the shipping cost is. I usually give the parts to a bunch of short track racing friends or Bonneville guys.
So that is HOW and WHY it works. I really like the LUK 11" clutch parts.
Tom V.
Lots of experienced parts changers, not very many "This is WHY it happened" guys.