[Tom Vaught]

1) You remove the carb, carefully dump out the gas in the bowls (turn it upside down and let it drain), work the primary and secondary throttle levers a few times to get rid of the
gas in that accelerator pump circuit.

2) I drink coffee in the morning so I have a Folgers Coffee red plastic container (that I have rinsed out) and use it to hold the "turned over carb" on the bench or outside the house or garage.

3) Now I look at the Primary Blade Position vs the Transfer Slot and adjust the Primary Idle Screw for a "SQUARE WINDOW OPENING as related to the Slot vs Primary Blade Position. Then that screw never gets moved again.

4) Next is the Accelerator Pump adjustment.
Open the Primary Throttle Lever/shaft/Blades to "full open" and check for an additional
.025 to .045" Accelerator Pump Travel before the Pump "bottoms out" (no more movement left).

You do not want the Pump Geometry (at full open) to ever rupture the Accelerator Pump
diaphragm. Bad Fire risk then.

Then you adjust the Secondary Blade Position by flipping the set screw slot over to where it can be adjusted from the top when the carb is on the intake.

3/4 Turn Out on a 4 corner carb idle mixture screws to 1 turn out on each screw.

AS FAR AS THROTTLE BLADE REMOVAL and INSTALL goes.
a) Remove the baseplate from the carb.

b) Using a file that fits inside the throttle blade opening CAREFULLY remove the swedged over Brass Mounting Screws so that each screw can be easily removed vs binding on the throttle shafts.

c) Write down which way the blades were installed in the baseplate BEFORE messing with the screws or removing them. Remove one pair of screws at a time (for ONE BLADE).

Hopefully TA Man or I can find a non drilled hole set of blades for your carb.
Do not disassemble the carb before you get the blank Throttle Blades.

Work the throttle linkage several times on the baseplate to confirm no binding
BEFORE Re-installing on the mainbody of the carb.

Tom V.