Quote:
Originally Posted by mf67gto
Jake the spec for the D567 says the flanges are 3/8 (.375"). I measure .400" (10.16mm compared to your 7.45mm) plus the head side of the tube is proud of the flange by a bit as well. This could be some of the issue pushing the header toward the frame? This would certainly rotate the header away from the frame if the flanges was thinner, etc.
To make them work the driver side was ok after I ground off part of the lower control arm mt. The passenger side took some fiddling as it ran down along the frame on the one tube shown in my post. I ended wrapping the tube in blue painters tape, put a red shop rag on it and then used a 1 inch wide pc of aluminum 1/8" thick and 2 ft long. I laid the Al pc on the shop rag and with a small 5lb sledge flattened the tube so I had about 1/4" clearance. It made me sick to beat on the $800 headers, but they are in place now. Pass side lower control arm mt needed some clearance as well for clearance there.
I tried the AMES new mts but they were too tight to go over my frame mts. I had "new" NAPA mts I bought 30 years ago that fit fine and I added the ram air battery cable pc to the driver mt - took some fiddling as well. I have about 1/4" between worse pipe to frame on either side-hoping this is enough. Will put a strap on the engine I'm sure.
Hope this helps those who are starting on this - glad the body is off the frame. Now working on the Pypes exhaust system and wrestling with this with no body on as well.
The block is a '70 with 72cc E-heads. I wonder if the exhaust flange on this head is in the exact place as the RA4 heads?
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Mine hit exactly where you listed, cannot install engine until we clearance them. I have the mounts shimmed, and the headers would not ever fit without them. Also, have E heads as you do. Brake line has to go in front of the cross member as the driver's side almost sits on it. my original D567 from 1973 fits easily, the thicker flange and the larger tubes are the problem!!