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Old 08-12-2021, 01:35 PM
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firechickenman firechickenman is offline
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Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Savannah, MO
Posts: 1,190
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tim Corcoran View Post
mgarblik

You ask how I bled the master cylinder, every way possible. Putting bleeder hoses from the ports and into the reservoir and pumping until clear of bubbles, per the instructions that came with the unit basically pushing in the piston less than one inch and holding for 20 seconds repeated several times until no more bubbles come up and finally I bled it with a MC bleeding tool ( Cardone 10-5000mcb) that forces fluid up through the ports . All worthless as no matter what I do the port for the rear brakes will not build pressure.
I have found the best way to bleed a master cylinder is to plug both ports, fill with fluid, and pump the cylinder (about 1/2") until the piston can only be pushed in approx. 1/8". If it doesn't get to that point of only being able to depress the piston 1/8" or so, that tells me there is either air still in it or it's a bad cylinder. This method does take a little extra time and sometimes I feel like I'm never gong to get the air out but once it's bled, you can feel confident that you're putting a good part on the vehicle.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 69Goat1 View Post
I use a stock replacement drum brake master cylinder...works great. Strange front disk and rear drum brakes...
Same for me!

__________________
'68 Firebird

463/pump gas/SD 325 E-heads/266-272 SR cam/1050 Dominator/3.73/ET Street Radials/1.37 60'/6.30@108.80/9.93@135.14

Hot Rod Drag Week finishing averages:
2014 - 11.12 @ 118.56
2015 - 10.84 @ 124.97
2016 - 10.56 @ 127.88
2017 - 10.29 @ 130.74
2018 - 10.29 @ 130.53
2019 - 10.16 @ 132.34
2021 - 10.09 @ 132.69
2022 - 10.13 @ 133.07

9.93 run - https://youtu.be/hII0_UlYM4U