I had the exact same issue with mine. I don't think it is an issue with the production but the design specification as the lip that holds the wheel cap on appears to be dimensionally incorrect and apparently, consistently incorrect as I have heard of others having the issue and I think it is curious, YO no longer sells this as a "kit" including the center caps with the wheels. Two things:
First, make sure your bearing caps are not contacting the wheel cap. I had to metal work mine down until they were flat on the top to clear but that may be due to my mismatch of brake parts.
Second, sorry to say this but I messed with mine for quite awhile before I just cut off all of the tabs and used grey RTV to attach the wheel caps. Odd thing is I feel way better about the RTV'd front caps staying on than the rears which are still held by the tabs. I will do the same to the rears next time I have the rear wheels off. Only downside is if the tire needs to be replaced or rebalanced, you are going to have to do the RTV thing again but I do not anticipate that happening for years so it isn't an issue for me.
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71 Formula 433, Splayed cap 400 block, 4" stroke Scat forged crank, 6.8 Eagle rods, custom Autotec pistons. SD 295 KRE D ports, Old faithful hybrid roller, Torker II, Holley Sniper Stealth, Tribal Tubes, TKO 600, 3.73 Eaton posi.
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