[Cliff R]

The springs are there to push the apply piston off when hydraulic fluid flow to the clutch drum ceases. The springs control the release and to some extent the apply. The factory had all that figured out and there is seldom any need to mess with any of it. Not uncommon to see two springs missing across from each other. If you see more missing than that someone was messing around in there. Removing springs does virtually NOTHING to help the shift program.

Even with that said the better Transgo kit comes with a set of custom springs for the direct drum to prevent clutch apply based on really high RPM's, or that was my understanding even though I can't see how centrifical force would easily cause that issue. Some "builders" just drill a bleed hole and claim that will prevent clutch apply based on RPM but in all the years building these units I've never once observed a problem with that deal do don't worry about it much.

I use and recommend the Transgo shift kits. Most "builders" come up with their own "recipe" to double feed direct and shift program. Transgo does it for you and no need to leave out any parts. I've never been a big fan of leaving off sealing rings, center seals on apply pistons, tossing out most of the check balls, driving plugs in the case, and drlling huge holes in the separator plate.

The Transgo kit also provides the "Jack Armstrong" direct clutch retainer for the case, the HD direct clutch springs, and detailed instructions to help set up the shift program. Also included in the better kits are the modified 1-2 shift valve and plug for the exhaust hole in he VB to provide full manual control of the upshifts. You can do most of that with a home-brew "recipe", but the kit makes it so easy and gives you parts that are difficult and expensive to obtain so it's a no brainer to just buy the kit instead......IMHO......