I haven't seen extreme serrations in Eagle cranks for the last couple years, but the last crank received about two weeks ago had serrations just a little iffy. Only took a little polishing of emery cloth to knock the edges down.
When the Teflon/Graphite seal first came out I installed it the same as I installed the old rope seals and was rewarded with shards of melted seal. Trick with the TG seal is to not pack it in place and basically lay it in position. No problems once we learned to not pack it, but still much prefer the BOP seals.
We had a block machined for 4-bolt billet caps and the machine shop* ended up raising the main journal centerline .027". That necessitated the use of a gear drive assembly for the cam and presented a sticky problem for a rear main seal. My son-in-law wanted to use a BOP one piece seal and spent considerable time on the phone to Wade. With his guidance we ended up shaving the exterior of the one-piece to where the seal centered on the crank centerline. Scary process but it is sealed up and no leaks after a year.
Here's what I've found on club engines we have worked on. Just my experience and your results may vary:
Original rope seal with asbestos - lasts many years if installed correctly
New rope seal supplied in gasket kits - drip free for about a year
Teflon/Graphite seal - lasts about three years before the first drip
2-Piece BOP seal - about 8 years and counting with no leaks
1-Piece BOP seal - about 4 years and counting with no leaks
* Proves that a shop can purchase the newest and latest equipment and still screw things up royally. Our local shops only do line hones so we drove 100 miles to a recommended shop to have them muff up the line bore).
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Mick Batson
1967 original owner Tyro Blue/black top 4-speed HO GTO with all the original parts stored safely away -- 1965 2+2 survivor AC auto -- 1965 Catalina Safari Wagon in progress.
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