Quote:
Originally Posted by Formula8
5) Your 40-50 year old wiring harness is probably not going to cut it. Be prepared to do a lot of rethinking of your electrical. Holley's marketing makes it sound like a four wire hook up and you're good to go. While that may work for some, now is probably the time to do some updating to avoid future headaches. Most of these retrofit systems have basically zero diagnostic ability and you are your own code reader.....except with no codes to read.
6) Whatever problem you have with your existing engine is not going to be fixed by fuel injection. The problem will likely be worse and you now will be chasing that in addition to a fuel injection system that isn't able to work properly due to the underlying issue. Run a compression or leakdown test, put new plugs, wires, cap and rotor in it and set the timing correctly before starting your Sniper install.
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Quoted and bolded because people should read it again.
I've had my FiTech in service for about 25,000 miles now. The FiTech on my wife's chevelle has been in service about 8000 miles. I've spent time on FiTech and Sniper boards and the vast majority of problems people complain about with those 2 systems specifically come down to two things.
1. A car that had problems to begin with that were masked by the carburetor
2. A piss-poor installation, poor attention to detail, rats nests of wiring and half assed "save-a-buck" fuel systems.
EMI issues with these systems for the most part don't start to crop up until you start working with the timing control features. You have signal wires that are necessarily very close to coils, plug wires and other power wires. This is where planning your wiring comes into play.
Power wires should never run parallel to signal wires. If they have to cross, they should do so at a 90 degree angle. The car needs all of it's grounds. Battery to block, block to body, body to chassis. Although the units ground the ECU to the throttle body internally, it's typically a good idea to ground the throttle body to the chassis as well.
Neither the Sniper of FiTech with it's onboard ECU provides the lengths of harness necessary to do a truly clean install without looming power and signal wires together. The vehicle side of the harness specifically, you should plan on extending the wires as needed. A good plan of action is to run signal wires on one side of the engine bay and power wires on the other.
Did I mention grounds?