Quote:
Originally Posted by wolf
FYI, the ram air pan is designed to cope with a reasonable amount of rain. The carb inlets are raised and it has water drain holes.
Also FYI, I have an open scoop and ram air pan on my '66 tripower car. I've dynoed my car hood open and closed, and it loses almost 20 RWHP with the hood closed, because the stock scoop opening is too small to feed air to that engine (@ 400+ RWHP). It starts pulling a vacuum through that tiny scoop inlet. I didn't glue my seal to the pan for that reason - when it starts pulling vacuum, it pulls the side of the seal in to grab more air (albeit hot underhood air). Another reason to not glue the seal is if you're caught in really heavy rain, you can plug the scoop openings and remove the pan seal to get home.
Finally, for the OP, I drilled holes then used a fine coping saw to cut mine open. Final trimming was with a die grinder and sanding roll.
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I am somewhat familiar, ie:
The original ram air pan, as fabricated in PMD Experimental metal shop:
The car which was used to develop the ram air package:
The hood was already cut and the battery already mounted in the trunk before we picked the car up from Royal in September of '64.
This is the letter that authorized us to run the ram air set up in 1965 NHRA B Stock competition before it was released to the public.
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'63 LeMans Convertible
'63 Grand Prix
'65 GTO - original, unrestored, Dad was original owner, 5000 original mile Royal Pontiac factory racer
'74 Chevelle - original owner, 9.85 @ 136 mph best
http://www.superchevy.com/features/s...hevy-chevelle/
My Pontiac Story: http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=560524
"Intro from an old Assembly Plant Guy":http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=342926