[Formulajones]

Originally Posted by tjs72lemans

I wondered if the timing could be an issue with long slow uphill climbs. I do have the TCS disconnected.
The radiator is filled about an inch below top. I didn't notice any spit out in the past few runs after shut down. I would've noticed that in the garage for sure. But, it may be still trying to find that sweet spot in the level.
I do not have the frame horn seals. I do have the lower radiator core support air dam though.
I'm not sure what my total advance is. I do know it was set on the dyno with 12 initial.
I really need to check and make sure my vac advance is functioning. It's a new cheap HEI, but seems to work well otherwise.
Overflow hose is connected and tight. I've checked the coolant level a few times in the last runs and it seems to be close to an inch below top. That's about where I filled it with 50/50 anti freeze premix when engine was installed.
This sender/gauge from Bosch is mechanical, so I can only assume these are calibrated and tested to read correctly since the line and gauge stay connected at assembly. My temp gun does read about the same.
During rebuild, I initially bought a 160 thermostat and switched it to a 180 due to the talk on this site about running too cool. Maybe with it running hotter than the 180 thermostat, I should consider going to a 160.

My hunch is that since you disconnected the TCS, your vacuum advance is not working. Most cars by this time ran the vacuum advance through a transmission control spark, where it would only add the additional timing when the transmission was in high gear or reverse. So if you have everything hooked up the way the factory intended, and then disconnected the TCS, that effectively kills the vacuum advance for the engine.

I usually just bypass the vacuum advance from the TCS so I have the additional timing in all gears all the time with these setups. Smog police don't like it but it's a pretty easy switch back and forth if you have to go through that sort of thing.