Quote:
Originally Posted by HWYSTR455
Idle timing is critical to keep idle temps down. You need a minimum of 12 degrees initial, 14-16 is better, and 8 vacuum helps when on top of that (vacuum can on manifold source, not ported). Obviously, you need to curve the distributor accordingly to control total timing.
Look at the service manual on how to set initial timing for cars before about 1970, they tell you to remove the vacuum hose to distributor and cap it off. What happens to the initial timing when you plug the hose back in? Yeah.
As a loose example, newer cars run 22-26 idle timing. Or more.
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The 5 blade (and 6 blade) OE clutch fan with shroud and a good clutch and AC pulleys should cool even the hardest to keep cool cars/engines.
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I found this to be true even in the 70's looking for a solution to a problem that didn't exist.
IE; I tried a aluminum flex fan to replace stock steel and fan clutch.
It sounded like a blower, and sucked a bunch of HP to run.
Went back to stock setup.
Working in a speed shop you'd be amazed how often people would waste money on upgrades [cooling]that don't work because they were trying to cover up another existing problem.
Timing,lean jetting etc.