[Cliff R]

"I see a lot of people insisting on mech pumps, and insisting they 'work', but in the end, many switch, and glad they did.

With a carb, e-pump with bypass regulator is the only way to go. Period. People can argue all they want, but time and time again, it's proven it can't even come close to an e-pump w bypass regulator.

Same with fuel line size. "It works fine", and then when they change to 1/2" they are like "I picked up 3/10ths in the 1/8th!" .

That's not only what you picked up.

And don't talk to me about any mech pump working. Not even the go-to ones. They don't work.

I have an image in my mind of all these garages with an almost new mech pump sitting on the shelf. Or multiple sitting on a shelf.

If you're doing it, do it right, do it once. And you will never have to worry about it again."


Plus 2, 3, 4 , 5, 6, 7 & 8. Someone should make this a "stickie".

I spent years and tried EVERYTHING to get by with a mechanical pump and it just flat DID NOT WORK. I even tried a "pusher" pump to feed the damn thing, and still ran into issues on hard launches. All of the efforts I put into making my car fast proved to me that in order to completely get rid of ALL issues with fuel delivery no matter how much power you make or how much work you put into making the car hook-up and fast in a drag race you MUST keep the carb completely FULL on hard runs, and despite what anyone tells you big fuel bowls arent' the answer either.

Sucking fuel any distance from a stock fuel tank is going to be a lesson in humility in the end. simply becasue when you get the car to leave really hard, where it flips over the passengers floor mat, or anything you left on the dash ends up againt the back window, ALL the fuel in the tank is pinned up against the gas cap. That in itself is a simple lesson in basic physics and a BIG clue is to why an engine mounted mechanical pump is NOT the way to cure fuel delivery issues.

The shape of the tanks and sump location in factory gas tanks are not ideal for drag racing with perfect traction, high stall converters and big HP.

The fix to all of it is simple, and I've explained all the drama I went thru many times on here. Bottom line it is always best to install a 10 second fuel delivery system on an 11 second car vs a 12 second fuel delivery system. In any and ALL cases it is ALWAYS better to "push" fuel than to "pull" it. You can also get away with much smaller fuel lines on the pressure side of the pump, and a smaller less output pump if you are pushing fuel vs pulling on it.

What muddies the water on here and any other Forum where this topic comes up is that every single time folks come on here telling us how they run deep into the 11's and some on into the 10's with a stock mechanical pump, stock lines, pick-up and don't do much more than make sure the tank is at least half full on race day........