Quote:
Originally Posted by Tim Corcoran
I recently read an article in Hemmings Muscle Machines about using proper break in oil, especially for flat tappet cams. Most people know you should not use standard auto parts store oil for an engine with flat tappet lifters. For a flat tappet cam you need an oil that has a high ZDDP additive package to protect the cam and lifters not only during break in but throughout the life of the engine. There are a few different companies that offer this oil that has the high ZDDP levels to protect flat tappet cams. For those who may not know oil now days is formulated for fuel economy and catalytic converters, the higher ZDDP additive package significantly reduces the life of the catalytic converter which is another reason they took most of the ZDDP out of the oil. The modern engines have closer tolerances are are made to run on thinner oil. For my wife's Toyota RAV 4, Toyota says she must use 0-16w oil. All modern cars also run roller lifters and they don't have the extreme high pressure metal to metal contact of a flat tappet cam so it's ok to lower the ZDDP package. Now here is the detail that most people get wrong. For break in, especially for a flat tappet engine you need to us NON-DETERGENT break in oil. If you get the good oil with the extra ZDDP but it's not specifically non-detergent break in oil the detergents in the oil wash away the ZDDP at the most critical time during the first few minutes during cam and lifter break in. So make sure you use the right break in oil and also use a high ZDDP formulated oil for the life of the engine. You won't find this oil at Autozone, or O'Rileleys of NAPA, or Walmart either. Don't use diesel oil in your car as the type of ZDDP additives for a diesel engine is not the same additive. There are two basic types of ZDDP a fast acting and a slow acting, oil formulated for diesel engine uses the slow acting ZDDP and it doesn't provide the same level of protection for a gas engine with flat tappet cams. I'm no expert, this is coming from the article and personally I take it as good advice. While were talking about flat tappet cams most people know there is a specific break in procedure for flat tappet cams. The cam lobes and lifter face are not pressure oiled like the rest of the engine is and rely on splash oiling from the crankshaft. That is why you need to get the engine started right off no excessive cranking because the carb was not primed or the timing isn't right, and you don't let it idle during break in. You need to keep the RPM between 1500 and 2000 RPM for the first 20 minutes. if your engine is getting too hot or you need to make adjustments it's OK to shut if off and continue when everything is right. One more thing, valve spring pressure, if it's too high that's enough to destroy the ca/lifer during break in and it might not show up right away. Most failure is at break in and you might not know it until it continues to wear away to a point that it's really knocking on your door telling you something ain't right. Beware of running high lift long duration flat tappet cams, in most cases if your going that direction hyd roller may be a better choice. For mild performance cams like the 068 for example flat tappet may work fine. Butler Performance will build you a complete engine but they won't build an engine with a flat tappet cam. Hmmmm seems there is a message in there some place.
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Just an FYI on this, modern oils still have close to 90% of what older oils had for zddp, old oil was about 1300 ppm zddp, most name brand modern oils have 900-1000ppm, which is plenty of zddp for most stock to mild FT cams. However, there are other modern additives like moly that handle extreme pressures of FT cam/lifters, as well as newer advanced zddp that lasts longer than the older type so not as much is needed which allows lowered levels, valvoline explains this in their FAQ section.
Adding a bunch of zddp additive, can cause other problems as explained in many oil articles and one very good article that was posted recently on another thread here. Stock-mild cams that are already broken in do not need special high zddp oils, most are "race" type oils like VR1. I have been running ~.480 lift cams on good regular oil for over 20 years with no cam/lifter or other engine problems at all.
Also, oil detergents dont "wash away" zddp, zddp is in the oil and is always circulating to parts, high detergent may wash the oil iteself off some parts or not stick to parts as well, but the zddp is still there doing its job.
Some of these specialty oils are available at auto zone or many other places, even walmart, but again, there is no reason or benefit to using a race type oil with super high zddp for a stock or smaller size cam, modern oils have plenty of zddp both new & old types as well as other anti wear additives to compensate for slightly lowered amounts... plus all modern oils have far better base stock oils than even 15 years ago, with a better base stock oil not as many wear additives are needed. Use a break in oil or a good regular oil with an additive specifically designed for FT cam break in like comp, crane or lucas, then run whatever good brand oil you like after break in... if you want to run race oil in your mostly stock engine thats fine too but its overkill & not needed for this situation.
My personal experience is I have used regular oils both synthetic & conventional in pontiac engines with stock cams as well as what I consider mild cams with around .480 lift, I drive 2 of them regularly, 1 is almost 15 years old with a comp XE .480 lift cam, other is the original cam/internals on a turbo 301, also had a 455 back in the 90's that had the snot beat out of it daily for close to 80k+ miles, pulled the motor after crashing the car & cam lifters looked like new, sold the cam/lifters to a guy who ran it for many years after. Also had a jeep 4.0 with a FT cam about the same size as smaller stock pontiac cams, drove that on the cheapest oil & spin on filters i could find on sale for 15+ years & over 200k miles, sold it 5 years ago & still see it driving around town today. Both cars have lots of harder street miles & some drag strip time.
All that on regular modern oils that " took most of the zddp out of the oil"... also used diesel oil in the 400 for many years without any issues at all, people have been using diesel oils for 20+ years in these cars with zero problems related to fast or slow acting zddp.
Just wanted to provide some accurate info on some of the false statements that still get repeated regarding modern oils or stock cams needing crazy high levels of zddp or race oils. The quality of lifters and making sure the break in process is done right are the main factors in a successful cam break in. The combo of oil or additives is important too but there are many options for that, I used good regular oil & the comp cam break in additive with great results, some just use normal oil & a can of STP or GM EOS.
Edit- Found the oil article I mentioned, its kinda long but covers many aspects of oil viscosity, base oils & zddp additives. "Kenth" posted this on another thread.
https://www.widman.biz/uploads/Corvair_oil.pdf