Quote:
Originally Posted by Kenth
It obviously have as you can see on your pictures, "only" problem they should aim towards camshaft and since they´re not the rods are mounted backward leaving less or no room for the rod bearing to the chamfer on crank resulting in glitter in oil, drag on crank and excessive heat building.
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Mikes reply:
OK, looking at the same photo that you reposted of my Crank, the Rod on the right needs to be swapped over and turned to the left side in that view and the one on the left needs to be on the right, this way that obvious chamfer will be toward the outside, adjacent to the crank Journal rounds. That Chamfer is to clear the weights of the Crank too.
We took the measurements in the past and posted them to this Thread. Could you look at those numbers of the side clearances that we provided to see if they are within spec and whether there is a good reason that this Engine runs the way it was built. Rite, wrong or indifferent, it has enough clearance to function in this real-world example, without overheating, frying or blowing up either.
I can attest to the fact, that the Heats we experienced in the Engine compartment, in this Vehicle, over the last ten years, were unbearable. However, over the years, we band-aided or masked these under hood symptoms that raised heat issues/problems and continued to evolve toward the factory professional way of reducing heat, in an Engine compartment.
One, we added a reverse Trans-am scoop to give us cool air to the Carbs. Plus, we use rec-89-90 unleaded fuel less Alcohol that boils or percolates at 186 degrees F. approx., Later than 176 degrees F. approx. then fuel with Alcohol in it.
We added a HD Truck type Clutch fan, factory shroud, 180-degree Thermostat with 3 drilled by-pass holes. We modified the water pump, drilled the block and Heads and blocked off holes in order to perform the 421and Pontiac cooling mods. We have an additional Side-kick and condenser elec. fans to back us up when running the AC.
We have the Trans. and motor oil coolers with remote oil filters on both, to cool their fluids better. I blocked off the Exhaust crossovers and installed a heat block off phenolic under the Intake Manifolds and above the Vally pan. I wrapped the Headers. I return the fuel back to the Gas tank and then there are the band-aids like wrapping fuel lines, Phenolics covering the fuel bowls and lines etc... lastly but not leastly, so we just added a new radiator Cap, that went bad from the Vehicle sitting for too long.
There is no excessive heat at this time and the only thing to complain about is this newest ghost noise. So, if this ghost noise disappears after replacing the Flexplate, Could I drive safely as long as all the tolerances, clearances and specs within range?
Look back in the attachment area for the posted clearances between the Rods and the Crank and piston to Cylinder walls.