Quote:
Originally Posted by Cliff R
"we moved the Crank Gear advanced by four notches. Each notch at the Crank is two degrees adding up to (eight degrees total) at the Crank"
FWIW I read the paragraph about where the cam is at couple of times and could make no sense out of it whatsoever. I've been at this engine building this coming up on half a Century and couldn't get a grip on it and I don't have or have never had any cam gears with "notches" on them. About the only timing sets I could move without offset keys were the 9 keyway sets and each movement of the crank gear REQUIRES the installer to use a NEW reference point or "dot" to line up with the "dot" the cam gear. Early Rollmaster sets were not well marked and the instructions sent with them as useless as the toilet paper you doddled last time you sat on the crapper.
I've seen very experienced engine builders screw that pooch up pretty good when using Rollmaster timing sets when they deviated from "dot to dot" and started using the advance or retard keyways.........FWIW.....
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Then it is a good thing that today comp cams has taken the thinking out of performing this important procedure. The instructions are online in the various forum groups, as well as in the box the Gears come in, FWIW MIKE out.
P.S. The miss-leading information out there is plentiful and sometimes confusing, often times unreliable. I choose to ask lots of questions, so ultimately, I came to the correct conclusion, "not" better than anyone, just more informed before dedicating my assets to the fix.
Also, my 1967 428 ci HO YK code Harmonic Balancer is different than most and the last year for it. First there is no rubber used that year (1967) and the Hub is made of solid Cast Iron and bolts to the Balancer, that also is an Iron weight with a stamped steel that is joined in some pressed manufactured method, that you need to be an engineer in order to understand the processed method. Then the two stamped pulleys are three Belts in one and one separate pully for the AC, if you need it. Then there is a plate with holes in it with various bolts that will assemble the amalgamation of parts together. Only the center Hub is damaged on mine. This very important part needs to be replaced with a quality unit. I want one that works with the existing pully system so I can retain Pontiac factory look, everything in my Engine compartment has the 1967 appearance and I want to maintain that look. However, I must insist that there be 360-degree lines and marks for Timing the Engine. Steel/Iron Billet is good, But I am wondering if I should go for Billet Aluminum to lighten the unsprang weight on the reciprocating parts like the Crank, rods, Pistons and Wrist pins. I am willing to spend between $300-$400 for the best. After studying my broken Hub and seeing the Crack along the existing keyway. one can only surmise this happening on another 50 year old part. I agree with your statement about purchasing another ancient used Pontiac Hub.