Quote:
Originally Posted by TRADERMIKE 2012
Still the best kept secret is why the racers put the Pistons in reverse in the first place, no one knows so far?
What do you think about the 87 actual degrees of overlap in the "041" grind vs. the former cam specs overlap only being 60 degrees? Added to any other factors that I have described in this thread, what made the strange noise? I also found two Exhaust Valves sunk into the Heads that are getting new Hardened Exhaust Seats and all the Valve guides had to be remanufactured, using a tool that leaves oil collection/grabber grooves in the Heads valve guide area.
The Head mechanic is milling down the Intake Valve seal Boss area, just like the exhaust seals were already milled for the blue double band valve seals, instead of using the former valve umbrella seals. By the way the umbrella seals were lifted off the boss seats and were moving with the valve stem up and down, adding to air or exhaust loss or reverb, could that have contributed to the noise problem, now that we observed this anomaly? I may be grasping for straws but I don't want to get this motor done and still have some unknown noise show its teeth.
The Head mechanic is not using umbrella seals, this time, on the eight Intake Valves lower boss seals area, instead he is milling the lower boss to fit a blue seal, with two metal bands, that will hold all 16 valve guide seals over the boss, never lifting off, ever. The man is meticulous. Also, I asked why he is not using valve guide inserts made of steel or copper or brass and he showed me the tool to bore in different size oil circular rings, for lack of better terms, into the existing valve guide's inner wall. He claims his way is the better way, can anyone dispute or elaborate on that please?
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Just trying to get you off the rhoads lifters fixing or changing the sound you heard thing. The lifters didnt cause the sound nor will new lifters fix the sound.
I got nothin on the overlap difference of the cams, the cam expert members have commented on that, I would listen to what they are saying & get the cam set right with the degree wheel & move on.
Got nothin on the noise issue either, but I said earlier on in this thread the noise wasnt caused by 4" dryer duct on the exhaust, there is not enough back pressure to cause anything you are grasping at like valve seals or exhaust seat issues. Whatever the cause, the reman'd heads will address everything related to "reverb" since you will have fresh heads & no holes in your crossover block off.
Fix #2 piston or leave them all as is if you dont want to touch the bottom end & keep your fingers crossed, or put the pistons back to stock positions & check the rod orientation & bearings.