Quote:
Originally Posted by racerboy
OK. Should I pull the distributor out? OR at least pull the weights and springs? Should I also get a new set of points? Is it possible they are bad (even though new)? Would that cause the running rough?
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None of that. LOOK at the distributor, the condenser you're trying to find is probably hiding behind the mainshaft assembly, invisible in the photo you posted.
The weights and springs are not your problem, if they're faulty, it's on the guy who restored your distributor. I don't think there's anything wrong with them, as long as they provide a decent advance curve.
Don't REPLACE the points,
TEST the resistance through them. A simple ohmmeter would work. The points have to be CLOSED to test resistance, and the ignition should be off. And verify the dwell, THEN verify the ignition timing. (Not the other way around.)
Quote:
Originally Posted by racerboy
I was running an octane booster (forget the name - will look in garage alter today). I didn't set up the carb fuel mixture, I assumed that it was done at time of restoration, but could be wrong.
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You need to adjust the idle mixture screws for lean "best idle", maybe lean-drop the idle vacuum about 1/4" of vacuum for each of the two screws (1/2" vacuum total) and verify that the choke works PROPERLY.
Quote:
Originally Posted by gto19
Have you tried a different coil ?
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How about TESTING the existing coil?
An ohmmeter and a spark-tester is all that's needed; as this ignition system uses a ballast resistor in the primary circuit, you'd want a spark tester that is
not calibrated for HEI ignitions. Check resistance between the two screw terminals, and between either of the screw terminals and the metal case. Check resistance of the coil-wire terminal and either one of the screw terminals, and between the coil wire terminal and the metal case.
Example: (Ignore the crap about "exclusively for small engines", it's not. They're lying.)
https://www.amazon.com/Stens-750-018...764548&sr=8-30