If you are serious about actually making near 700 HP, you will need various upgrades to a 2-bolt block to make it live. Answers to your questions: Torque plate. If the shop has a boring mill that can bore with a plate, great. Most do not. My boring mill does not. I leave .007"-.008 to hone with the plates in the Cylinder King after boring. No issue. Very important that the machine shop have the exact head gasket you are going to use and the exact fasteners you will use with the heads for the torque plate. Concerning the mains: At 700 HP, all the main pins need to be removed and replaced with long pins. I feel you need billet splayed caps and studs at all locations for 700 HP. Stock 2-bolt caps with studs are on life support at 600-650 HP. Straight billet caps are on life support right at 700 HP. Line hone will be mandatory as soon as you change fasteners from stock. To be 100% honest, IMO at a true 700 HP you are right at that point where an aftermarket block would offer many advantages. King bearings are great. You mentioned the rotating assembly was used parts? If that's the case and the rods are Eagle, I would absolutely have them torqued up and checked for twist, taper and out of round. They tend to move around quite a bit initially, and then finally take a set. You will probably have to resize the big ends. If you back off the power level a little and stay around 6500 RPM's, the stock block will live with the improvements mentioned. Good luck with the build.
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