I would definitely lock the distributor, set it and forget it.
I don't know what the hood clearance situation is like, but if you can fit a 1" (minimum) aluminum HVH Super Sucker spacer, I highly recommend it.
I agree, I wouldn't remove the Power-Valve up front.
Converter is a huge deal and will definitely cause you to lose the 60 times, and although 4,000 isn't shabby, I would look into having one built that will net more rpm on launch, yet remain tight enough down track to keep the slippage down. 15% is a lot and is definitely NOT the norm for a street 10". Sounds to me something might be up with it. There is more to a converter than just rated "stall" or "flash" rpm, and when built right, you CAN see that best of both worlds scenario.
If you get the opportunity, try tuning for power at the track, with a little less focus on A/F ratio. You will be surprised. Most guys who rely too much on that wind up being safe but very conservative.
Two other areas you can look into, would be switching to a bit more gear (which you can test by bolting on a shorter tire, like a 26") just to see. And the other area would be adding 2 more degrees of advance to the camshaft if you decide to dive back into the engine. Changing camshafts like you did from very similar duration numbers to that much wider lobe separation alone would kill enough bottom end to lose 60 ft, giving it a little more may just bring it back without going too drastic with the rest of the drivetrain..
As for suspension, seems you need to hit the tire a bit harder to get that car motivating. A few areas to look at would be actual Pinion angle with driver in the car, what hole the Cal-Tracs are in, and what is done to the front for weight transfer.
Just a few ideas, hope this helps.
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