Quote:
Originally Posted by marks73ta
I'm glad you guys are doing this thread. I still have to tackle my trunk located radiator and make sure it flows and cools since "cool" days in Phoenix AZ are few and far between. So far I'm going with a 55 GPM electric single outlet electric remote pump located aback t the radiator outlet. -16 (7/8ths) to and from the. Not too sure if it will work or not. I'm concerned whether that pump will move enough coolant (water) all the way up and back with enough power to maintain flow and any pressure. I'm thinking about a helper pump up front for a return. I've also cut the top off of an old front cover thinking to use that with a Mezeier type electric back at the radiator and the remote I already have to use for the return. I do not have the capability of a factory pump on the front of the motor since I am using a Hilborn cam driven fuel pump on a MOON front cover. At least for now.
There are belt driven Hilborn pump units that I could mount off of my front engine plate and I could install the factory type front cover and use a regular belt driven or an aftermarket electric pump in there.
I'm also committed to making the trunk mount radiator work. No place left in the front for a radiator. It's probably shoot self in foot time but I want to make it work.
Anywho, still working out that system.
Mark L
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Good Morning Mark,
I'm at work at the moment so I'll just make a couple of comments and get back to you later.
First off I'll say that a -16 AN Line feeding a 55 GPM Pump is WAAAYYYY too small period. A -24 AN Line or a 1.300" I.D. Hose fitting is what that pump needs. Never starve the inlet side of a pump. I'm sure that there are those that say you can get away with it, but in fact they are wrong.
Then there is the issue of the outlet side of that particular pump. What I WOULD NOT do is run one single large line all the way to the front of the vehicle. Two -16 AN lines is what I would run.
Engine Feed/Supply Lines:
Two -16 AN Lines = One 1.1879393" Orifice (Approx. 1-3/16")
Definitiely Mount the Pump Behind the Radiator.
Now the Return Lines from the Engine Outlet to the Radiator Inlet. If there is Room, I'd probably run a Single -20 AN Line.
Engine Outlet/Radiator Inlet Line:
One -20 AN Line = One 1.08" Orifice. (Approx. 1-5/64")
Then here's what I'd do....
With the System Operating and a Pressure Gauge Mounted in the Engine's Internal Cooling System, I'd Monitor the System Pressure in the Engine.
NOTE:
Where you mount the gauge will depend on how you design your cooling system. What I don't care about is the pressure in the lines leading to the engine or the line coming back from the engine. What I want to know is if the Return Line is too big for the system to create sufficient pressure inside the ENGINE'S coolant passages.
If it were determined that the return line was TOO large, then I'd create a restrictor and installl it in the return line.
Next... Monitor that "Internal Engine Cooling System Pressure" during a Run down the track. If it maintains a good steady pressure then we're done.
If it doesn't then here's why..
The "COLUMN" of Coolant in the Two -16 AN Feed Lines have MASS/WEIGHT. Under Acceleration the Water Pump has to Overcome this Mass which Creates Additional Pressure in those Lines and Requires the Water Pump to Work Harder. Whenever the Water Pump Works Harder, it SLOWS down somewhat. If it Slows down tooo much, we'll loose internal system pressure.
If that occurred, then and only then, would I say that you need a Booster Pump...
Be sure to supply that Water Pump with an Excellent Electrical Supply.
(High Amperage Rating Relay, Large Gauge Wire + & -, etc.)
Larry S.