angle torque bolts.
 

Any one here reuse angle torque bolts and just retorque them./ Other than you are not supposed to reuse them and replace with new ones, have there been any problems?

If I understand it would be a bolt that would be torqued to an initial value then final torqued using an angle torque meter as opposed to a specific setting? I'm only a diy mechanic but about the only time I heard of a single use bolt is a torque to yield bolt which can only be torqued once which I have no doubt you are familiar with.

Before I retired and still worked as a Chrysler tech the factory told us we could reuse head bolts as long as there was no sign of stretching (necking down).

There is a "torque-to-angle" procedure (TTA) that can be used on most any bolt. Since the bolt has stretched but not yielded, it can be reused.

In addition, there's also a "torque-to-yield" procedure (TTY) which uses a different type of bolt that should NOT be reused. It won't clamp correctly after yielding due to loss of elasticity.

Are you asking if someone has "done it anyway" and re-used the TTY bolts? Sorry, just not sure I'm understanding your question.

Thank you all..

65 Lamnas : Just put rear pads and rotors on my 2015 Camaro. Removed the caliper bracket to install the new rotors. All of us oldtimers at the barn had no idea on the torque specs. Looked up a 12mm fine thread 10.9 grade bolt and came up with 96ft.#. After I got home I found out, according to GM, that the bolts were to be replaced with new after removal. BTW, the specs found online were 30 ft.# +90 deg. Your response eased my mind a bit. New bolt are on the way just in case

I have found if the bolt gets to the point it shouldn’t be used again normally you can feel it stretch to much on that last 30*. It will feel like the torque isn’t increasing much, even though your tightening it yet.

Times two, and usually will break if keep torquing. Had a arp head stud do this.

I did the same thing on my 2011 Camaro. Put some red Loctite on them and German-torqued them. I think this new bolts on everything is BS. Torque to yield is different (and BS).

I helped my daughter do a brake job on her 17 Escape. The caliper bracket bolts required torquing. Reused the front bolts no problem. However, one of the rears deformed well below the required torque value. The others were was ok. Bought new bolts from the Ford dealer. 6 in a pack. After two of those deformed well below the required torque value I tightened the next one to about 5 ftlbs below where the others started to deform. (Front bolts are a different size than the rears.)

THANK YOU. Not many folks recognize the difference between Torque/Angle and TTY.

I paint a stripe down the shank of torque/angle bolts. When I remove them later, if the paint stripe is twisted, the bolt is junk. If it's still straight, and not corroded, no thread damage, not visibly necked-down, etc. it's OK to re-use. Photo of Lumina 3.4L DOHC head bolts attached. They're the metric equivalent to 7/16; once the torque/angle procedure is complete...I tested the torque on them and it was approximately equivalent to what a 7/16 head bolt would be torqued to (about 65--70 ft/lbs.) REMOVAL of these bolts required about 160 ft/lbs, (no lube at all on the threads from GM) and I broke a 15mm 3/8" drive Snap-On socket doing that. Had to switch to a 15mm 1/2" drive socket.

Torque-to-yield bolts are scrapmetal once removed. If possible, I replace with ARP and then torqued as appropriate. TTY just pisses me off. How can it make ecological and economic sense to throw metal away after one use?

Ken I recently did my 2015 Chevy truck man the specs on the front caliper bracket tp spindle were really high and they used loctite in addition! Had to use a breaker bar and slide the jack handle tube over it!