Pcv grommet?
 

Do any of the baffled grommets work?

I took my new combo out for it's first drive and after getting up to 3500rpm the pcv sucked oil and I smoked the road. Had oil in the right hand tailpipe.

Capped the pcv to get me home but it's pushing a bit of oil out of the dipstick onto the headers.

The pcv is in the after market valley pan connected to the back of the Victor under the carb. 2 open breathers in the valve covers. I have 12" of vac at idle.

So is my problem that my grommet isn't baffled and that's why it sucking pil at wot?Would I be better off trying a valve cover pcv and baffled grommet?

Engine had cam broken in and rings seated on the dyno.

from my experience, all depends as there are some variables, such as vc baffle location, how your pcv setup is, possible other engine issues, sealing, etc
i've used the Moroso type, but if i recall you have to make sure you have some depth clearance as it did go far into the VC
there's also some bolt in baffles you can try too, forgot off hand who offered them but i recall seeing a few on Summits site
i've tried the LS style pcv valve, and even used a catch can, all seemed to help some
one of my main issues, and thanks to Mr. Vault here, was i was not using a push/pull setup, which at one point is a reason my setup ran like a smoker/fogging machine... what a mess

since my engine is sealed up pretty good, and i swapped to the GZ V-pump, i haven't had any issues, and doesn't suck up much oil either
well worth it for my setup
a stud girdle could also help too, as it will help reduce splashing where your PCV is, assuming its in the VC.

if you are using one of the valley pans that aren't slotted, perhaps getting some mesh inside the valve could help, i used i want to say a ford explorer valve/filter. it's been so long ago, and did help, but as i said reading what Mr. V has posted on a setup surely helped
just some suggestions

Thanks Don. My pcv is in the valley pan. Will the pcv in the vc help with the wot problem? I didn't think the baffled grommet would fit if using a stud girdle, which I am doing. Or could I use a standard grommet with the stud girdle to stop sucking oil at wot and high rpm cruising

might need to try it in the VC
oil dispstick tube sealed good?
using a breather in one of the VC's as well?
i have tall VC's and a spacer to clear the girdle. however the moroso covers do have a baffle too

do a search on the site here and you'll see various topics about setting up a good pcv setup

if you're making some good power, personally i'd look at a VP setup.

If the valley pan you have is the single piece one, it is very prone to suck oil through the PCV valve. I never use those. I'd buy a reproduction piece pan and use that.

Yes it's a single piece valley pan.

I have the tall covers, spacer and girdle too. I'll try the pcv in the vc if the grommet clears the girdle. I have an open breather on each vc at the moment

Tomahawk valley pan will work with roller lifters. I use the flat ones on race engines without pcv. Had your issue with the added pcv on the sheet metal aluminum pan

I tried every baffled PCV grommet in the Butler aluminum valley pan with no luck. Even added a 2" tube to make it taller. the KRE pan i used on another motor only had 3 holes vs the numerous ones maybe soem of why it sucked more oil.

PMD tented the Valley Pan to BOTH allow condensation a place to go, and then allow a more effective oil mist separation.

I wonder why the non-valley PVCs being off the RH Valve Cover, never the LH side. So i put my baffled Valve cover breather on the RH Valvecover. Maybe we ought to put our PCV valves there? And what, a LH breather or no breather?

PMD tented the Valley Pan to BOTH allow condensation a place to go, and then allow a more effective oil mist separation.

I wonder why the non-valley PVCs of modetn V8s are put being to the RH Valve Cover, never the LH side.

i put my baffled Valve cover breather on the RH Valvecover. Maybe we ought to put our PCV valves there? And what, a LH breather or no breather?

Thought the SD 455 had the PCV in the left valve cover.

If this car is to be driven on the street I recommend the Tomahawk Valley pan that Butler offers as it is patterned off the OEM type but has clearance for roller lifters. If it's a track only car then you don't really need to run a PCV system at all. With open headers you can run a header evac system or vacuum pump. For a street car the Tomahawk valley pan and a OEM PCV system is what I use on my street rod. If you are pushing the dipstick out you are getting a lot of blow by which may indicate your ring seal may not be ideal. The PCV system doesn't do much at WOT so maybe you could try putting open breathers on both valve covers. Have you done a leakdown test on the engine to see how the rings are sealing?

All street cars should use the Tomahawk Valley Pan and factory style PCV in my opinion to prevent the problem you are having. Header evac system usually don't work with mufflers.

Hi Tim, it's a street strip deal. a fresh build, only ran on the dyno and about 20 road miles and builder said rings were seated on dyno.

My problem is only at higher revs. Had the pcv hooked up from the valley pan with 2 open breathers on the valve covers. Once I got to 3500rpm it sucked oil into the exhaust
.
Went home and capped the pcv still with the 2 open breathers. As I was checking the total timing, it spat oil out of the dipstick.

Not sure what make the valley pan is but it's an aftermarket aluminium one and looking into the pcv hole, seems to be doubled skinned.

Full exhaust system so not sure about doing the header evac thing.

Do I need to do more street miles to ensure the rings are properly seated? There is vapour out of the breathers but no oil.

I run baffled valve covers with PCV's in both VC's to the back of my victor
intake with breathable oil breathers on each VC. Works good might for
you too. I tried with a valley cover like yours and had the same problem.

GT

If you have an aluminum valley pan throw it in the trash those things are useless and always suck oil. Get the Tomahawk valley pan and hook up the PCV in the proper way. Make sure you get the grommet for the PCV valve. The Tomahawk is an exact duplicate of the factory pan and are made from stamped sheet metal in two pieces and spot welded together.

Header evac system works pretty good with open headers but not so good with an exhaust system. On my car it wasn't good at all with an exhaust system.

Yes, in the cap. I wonder if those are available???

I see you have two threads going. I've read through both and not sure what advise to give you at this point. Lots of good suggestions on both threads. You have the Tomahawk valley pan so that's good. I realized after reading all the post that there is and was a lot of different PCV valves years ago. I remember trying different ones, but didn't help my situation. There is also an adjustable PCV on the market.
https://mewagner.com/?p=444 There is also lots of info on this site about these valves.
Examples of different valves: https://www.ebay.ca/itm/113725191008
Here is a good read: https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/tu...-engine-leaks/

69 Firebird
472, KRE 85cc, Victor, 850xp, TH400, TSP 9.5" 4800, 3.90 10 bolt, Viking DA rears, QA1 single fronts, 3558lbs. best to date 10.90 @123

How much H/P did your engine made on the dyno? I'm gonna guess the engine made at least 550 hp if not 600. and probably just as much torque. Curious.

Chuck
the time in my signature was with the solid roller, that made 620hp/601tq with a dominator. (had the 850 on for this ET though)

my current engine is the same set up except the cam is now a solid flat tappet that made 542hp/581tq with the 850xp carb.