Took my 72 to the track.
 

So yesterday I took my 72 to the track for the 1st time. It was a learning experience. Im going replace the rear springs,shocks and control arms. My question is should I remove the traction bars. The 1st run it bogged down. 2nd run tire spun. 3rd run it bogged down but it was the best pass. I will post a picture of time slips. This is a stick shift car and the rear tire is a275/60/15 Mickey Thompson Et street radial pro. I am taking this car to Norwalk since my race car is down.

Time slips.

Leaving at the track on street tires with a stick is tough. Finding that sweet spot between bog and spin. Good luck! How hard is it to remove your traction bars? Try both ways and see?

I'd say it could be about a second quicker if it hooks good.

I'd try different launch techniques before I'd take the traction bars off?
They relocate the lower bar?

:confused:

Best money I spent to hook my old 66 gto 4spd street car at the track was putting poly bushings in lower rear arms, and using the adjustable roto-joints in the upper. I used standard bias drag slicks at the time. I recall the car ran around mid 12's with otherwise stock suspension. I did have airlift bags in the coils, but the car really did not seem to care.

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Pictures of the traction bar.

Have had a pair of those before.
Just searched, not Traction-Masters.... hmmm

I'm going to take them off and see what happens.

I had Stop-Hop bars, upper adjustable control arms with stock boxed arms with new polyurethane graphite bushings in my '65 and that thing would really hook and went low 12s.

Run it again with them but take all the slop out of them(no air gap)
Thats kind of like a slapper bar. The idea is to push the tire into the
pavement on launch.

GT

Your control arm bushings look hammered. I'd replace them for sure.

I'm going to replace all the control arms. I really don't want to race this car but since my race car is down for the year I need something for Norwalk.

Got ya. Good luck and have fun! Should be a twelve in that thing once you get it hooked up.

http://clutchtamer.com/

This is an interesting idea for a stick shift car. Basically a storm door cylinder. Can adjust the clutch-to-drivetrain "hit" to soften the shock load, to reduce bog and tire spin. I am assume an experience racer can slip the clutch successfully though.

There is a kit for modern hydraulic clutch setup also.

There are centrifical assist clutches to that slows the grab to let it spin a hair also. I think a lot of the stick Stocker and SS cars use them.