Need help with installing the convertible top weatherstrip on my '69
 

I've installed the front header weatherstrip and the way the ends are made has got me a bit confused.
Here's a closeup photo:

https://i.imgur.com/WUAXRbE.jpg

Is that last inch of the end where the screw is supposed to be underneath the end of the side weatherstrip? Is that end screw supposed to come out and a longer screw put in that goes through the side weatherstrip and the end of the the header weatherstrip?
That would make the side weatherstrip have a gap between it and the top frame and that seems odd to me.

https://i.imgur.com/hIUfO9f.jpg

My 68 (original and new weatherstripping needed lol) is on top of the screw. There seems to be a hole in the WS above the screw but no screw going through it.
Which was are you using? Looks nice

Thanks for responding.
On the replacement header w/s, it's metal encased in rubber on the ends and is pretty thick. I'd say almost 1/4". I wonder if the rubber needs to be stripped away from the metal where it goes underneath.

Mine is held to the frame with just the two screws behind (aft) the screw in question. What company did you use for the w/s? Thanks

Is that a repro convertible header bow? If so how is the fit?

I don't remember if that front hole location had a screw in it or not when I disassembled my car. Since there's a hole in side w/s that lines up with that front hole, It would seem that a screw is supposed to go through both the side w/s and end of the header w/s.
I bought a complete w/s kit from Ames. The header w/s was SoffSeal and there was no brand label on the side w/s.

Since your car is original, it would be very helpful to be able to see a photo of the very end of your header w/s.
I think if you took out the screw in the middle of the side w/s section and loosened the rear screw a bit, you could rotate it out of the way to expose the end of the header w/s for a photo.

My entire top frame is original. Hardly any rust at all on the header bow but I did blast it then painted it and the rest of the top frame with black epoxy primer.

https://i.imgur.com/78MazZy.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/917R3Vp.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/WkLIQA4.jpg

the seal should be underneath the frame weatherstrip and then the screw goes through the weather strip, through the seal and into the frame.

The main problem here is you're a victim of aftermarket garbage. the original seal has a thin metal framework inside an easily compressable thin foam layer over it that basically lets it squeeze flat underneath the side weather strip. that aftermarket seal in your picture is way too thick there compared to the original and that's why it's lifting the WS up for a gap. is there metal underneath it that you could trim that rubber down thinner?

Thanks for your response.
I pretty much came to the conclusion that that's the way it had to be. So when I installed it, I tried to cinch the front screw down really tight to squeeze the rubber underneath down. The stock sized screw could not quite handle that so I replaced it with a slightly oversized screw and tightened the crap out of it. I think it will be fine now. I'm still in the process of getting the 2 side windows adjusted on this (driver) side. I think I'm about 95% there and will start on the passenger side soon. It's taking me an inordinate amount of time to get these windows adjusted to my satisfaction. Not sure if it's possible to get the side windows to seal 100% perfect on a convertible, but I'm going to give it my best shot.

Not a vert but it took me about about two days to get the side windows right, and then a couple more sessions with them after the car sat with the doors closed for a while and the new WS settles in.

Same here on my'72 vert, Roger.

Took all the guts out of the door to clean it and re-grease where needed and then reinstalled it. Don't know about the '69, but the three bolts which hold my window to the mechanism are easy. Slide it back and forth ... it goes back and forth. lol Start messing with rotational movement, it gets confusing.

I finally had to go back to my old geometry knowledge. when rotationally adjusting, envision where the window is secured and how it rotates around that secured spot. At least it helped me on the final little bit of adjustments. IOW, if you move the rear upper window stop down, the window will rotate the top to the rear (and lower) and the front bottom of the window to the front (and up).

I think that's right ... lol. I may be confused too.

Ogre

I think I nailed it.

https://i.imgur.com/U04FVUT.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/z0lgbSA.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/U04FVUT.jpg)

https://i.imgur.com/ennb7WU.jpg

I think 1969 is a bit different than all the other years on the driver window mechanism. Not sure if it's any more or less complicated though. It did take a while to learn what moves what and figure out the best order to do it. Same on the rear windows. Once I went to the passenger side, it went much faster. Still took a while on the door but the quarter window went very fast.

I've been working on the side windows now for over 2 weeks and it seems like forever. But, I've only worked on it maybe a couple of hours per day during this time. If I had to guess, I'd say it's taken me 20 hours or so.

68 might be simpler with the vent window cause the main glass doesn't have to fit that angle in the front.
I spent the most time trying to get the door glass to lay on the quarter glass reasonably flat where they meet/overlap while still getting the door glass to slide nicely into it's groove along the top edge.
I didn't realize till late in the process how important the stops are .. the glass in most cases is NOT going to roll up and down perfectly square in the tracks .. the stops are what levels that top edge when you put that last bit of pressure on the crank to close the window.

How much off flush did you end up with between the door and quarter glass where they meet? I couldn't get it any better than about 1/16" out on the door glass ... it just didn't want to compress the WS on the leading edge of the quarter glass any more than that without forcing the top edge of the door glass out too far.

I figure I'm going to have to readjust all this after a few months of the WS compressing and conforming to shape. I think the OEM rubber was very carefully formulated to behave nicely.

https://i.imgur.com/Fpgqxv2.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/jJ3QOoH.jpg

Does your coupe have a solid foam w/s at the top? A convertible w/s isn't and doesn't need any settling-in time. It's like a steel angle iron encased in rubber with a hollow curl where it meets the glass edges. Only the A pillar piece is the foam type. I found that spreading a pure silicone liquid on the foam works perfectly for a lubricant to help get it settled in. It also keeps the glass edge from grabbing it when rolling the window up.

I ignored the adjustment of the quarter windows until after I had the door glass adjusted exactly the way I wanted. I then proceeded to the quarter windows adjustment. They had enough adjustability to get to them where I wanted without having to mess with the front window alignment again. As far as the door glass overlap with the vertical seals on the quarter window, I got them to where the vertical alignment and contact pressure were perfect.
I do intend to do a bit more adjustment on the contact pressure of the top frame w/s to the top edge of the glass in a couple of spots. Easy to do by drilling a new hole for the screws downward from the top side of the frame.

I do have one complaint about the w/s that mounts to the body at the base of the quarter windows. They don't have the correct contour where the body edge makes that curve toward the front. The little strip of rubber won't make contact there. It's about the same on both sides. The way it's made it can't be adjusted by bending it.

https://i.imgur.com/OChwAHR.jpg

I got these in a kit from Ames. They are the OEM Type. They state this in the catalog about them:
"The first important difference is the exact contour of the flocked rubber window sweep (starting at the round bead as it arches up against the window). These kits are the highest quality on the market"
If these are the highest quality on the market, that's disappointing.

I'll try some lubricant on the top WS ... should help it slide in the pocket better.

I can see the contact point between your door glass and quarter WS ... going to have to eyeball mine and see if I can see the same nice straight pattern. Is that quarter window sash OEM? Looks somehow different than mine.

68 upper WS is an all foam piece that is glued into a metal track. Metal track is screwed to the roof ... foam is stuffed/glued in the track. It will need some time for the top edge of the glass to make it's impression I think before it fits great.

That's what Ames says. Here's a link to what I bought. I may call them and say that contour was not good on mine and see what they say.
https://secure.amesperf.com/qilan/De...A&web_access=Y

Get a straight silicone lube or silicone oil for the foam seals. I think it's the best for those. Not as good for the harder rubber on the vertical seals though. It doesn't penetrate those at all. Use another type for those.

I got my set from some guy in Arizona I think ... at the time Ames was out of stock. I had to wait about six weeks as this guy makes them to order I guess.

At least that's the story, you never know in this game, could have the same off shore supplier as everyone else.

Think you could find out who that was? I might be interested in talking to them if they indeed make them themselves.

This is the place:

http://www.repops.com/index.cfm

Can't vouch for their outer quarter window fit since I haven't installed those yet. I have installed their door glass outers, and their quarter glass inners. They fit, and they worked .... but I'm no WS expert, I was just happy to get some.

If there are any areas of interest on the WS I can take photos of them since they are not installed yet.

Roger, I have been searching for different vendors of convertible tops and parts and trying to decide where I will be ordering my parts to replace my top. The one I am most impressed with is a company called M&T Manufacturing (Convertible Top Guys) out of Rhode Island.

They have a very detailed site with lots of tips and suggestions for us novices.

If anybody has tried them, maybe they can join in with their experiences

Ogre

Thanks.
I'm going to have to do something. They just don't look right. One thing I thought of is to cut vertical slots underneath the top seals to allow for me to bend the contour to the correct shape. It could only be seen when looking down from the inside which is not a place anyone would normally look.

Btw, I think I found a good way to make the harder type of rubber on the vertical seal at the quarter window more slippery. First, I cleaned them with solvent based wax and grease remover and then applied some Meguiars Ultimate Black Restorer. Makes them slick and look great too and doesn't seem to leave any residue on the glass.

Thanks Ogre. I've already purchased the convertible top and it's at the upholstery shop. I have the top boot and well liner also. The guy at the shop likes the Robbins brand the best. He ordered from his rep and I paid him back for it. He's been using that brand for many years.

I had seen that convertibletopguys website before but my interior guy
recommended Convertible Service so I went with them for the cylinders and pump.

I completed adjusting the top frame weatherstrips today and am confident this top will be as leak free as a convertible can possibly be. Very glad to have this done so I can move on from this.