New 455 engine
 

I have a 1972 455 virgin block to rebuild only problem is it's cracked between two freeze plugs. I'm going to do a full fill on the block I use a product from locktite call locktite backer its a 2 part epoxy and it would be about 1 1/2 " above the crack . This will be a race only engine .They use this stuff in the mines to coat the blade on the buckets of the loaders. It's cheaper than hard block and it flows real nice and sticks like baby **** to a blanket. My current engine has this product and is filled 1/2 way up the water pump holes of the block. No problem with my current engine .The machine shop I deal with here in Northern Nevada has been using this stuff in race engines for the last 15 years and swears bye it. This stuff slicks to the walls and does not pull away like Hard block can. So the Any thoughts. Also I have some Federal Mogal race only rod bearing FMP-7050 for my new Eagle 455 crank. Do these rod bearings have enough radius for the new crank , would they be a good choice for this engine?

Is it any lighter then hardblock ????

Is it any lighter then hard block ????

Im pretty sure it's a few pounds lighter . I told Dave Butler about this product and he sounded interested in it himself. I think it's around 60.00 around here.
It's called Loctite Nordbak part # 1324545

Thank you for the part number Tom

test the crack first to make sure it is confined to that one area -- then good luck

Race only deal? I would place tape across the bottom half of the water pump holes and fill it to the top of the tape.

It can still leak water even if filled (went through that on Lisa's motor) so I would find someone who knows how to weld cast Iron and have it welded up. On those rod bearings I tried a set and they slightly rubbed in the radius area of the crank but you can chamfer them and they should be OK.

Do you already have a rotating assembly for the 455? If not why not go get a good 400 block? If you already have the rotating assembly, crank, go get a good 455, why take a chance? 455 blocks around here go for about $250-300.

Update , well after taking the block down to the machine shop yesterday the machinist said he wouldn't recommend rebuilding this block the way I wanted using the locktite product. He was saying that where the crack was would effect the head gasket seal. But could be used if weld up properly. He also said they have in the past used a LOCK & STITCH product and have nothing but good things to say about it. Check it out on line looks pretty impressive. I have another virgin 1973 455 block I will use for this new short block. Guess I'll keep the crack block for another project and might try the Lock @ Stitch on it.

Dug out my last 455 block for this new rebuild . Just thought it was funny the date code is 10-31-73 Halloween block

Spookie :D

Ratkiller, I'm in Winnemucca, and have wondered for a long time what shop to use in Northern Nevada for short block work. Do you mind me asking who you use? Looking for somebody local to do the machining for a street/strip stroker that knows Pontiacs.

I just scrapped a 455 block that was cracked between two freeze plugs. I would not invest a dime in a block I already knew was cracked. Way cheaper in the long run to replace the block on the onset. Plus you will always have that in the back of your mind.

Huges machine shop in Fallon fast and do a great job. They build lots of drag motors and roundy round engines. It's a 2 man machine shop they do very good work. Only thing they cant do is line bore motors. Have to got to Reno for that. They can line hone blocks just no line boring. they have been there over 20 years.

Cool, thanks Ratkiller. Do you race at top gun? Ever come to Winnemucca? Good new 1/8th mile strip.

Been racing at Top Gun since 2005 been track champion a few times and won a lot of money over the years. Never wanted to do the race at Winnemucca wish they had put in a 1/4 track instead of the 1/8 mile deal.

Pinning (cold weld, stitch, pick your vernacular) the cracks is the most dependable way to repair cast iron. It's tedious and takes some practice. I agree, unless it's a "special code", don't waste the time and money on the 455 block. Get a 400 block and use that.

Welding cast CAN be done. Some guys are REALLY good at brazing. Usually, it just makes matters worse by spreading the crack or creating new ones off the risers. Furnace-brazing is the "right" way to do it. I doubt there's one in Reno, or even Vegas. Probably have to go to L.A. or S.F. for it.

HardBlock doesn't seal "water", it's true. Very porous. If the LocTite product is a plastic-base, it probably WILL seal fine. Once either is used, the block can't be cleaned in a thermal cleaner.

The 7050CH is a decent bearing. It SHOULD be okay. Install a pair of rods and check for "shining" at the radius (on the bearing). Consider Clevite CB758HN. It's DEFINITELY okay.

FWIW

Jim

Wonder if you could use a gas tank sealer first then the Hard Block stuff.

Wasn't there something(ceramic sealer?) I thought Smokey Yunick used to seal the porous early aluminum BBC heads water jackets?

It's called Sodium Silicate.