BIG TIME B&M transpak Problems
 

Please help me. I got A B&M Transpak for my TH400 thinking I'm going to get
a much better shift and life out of my trans.

NNNNNOOOOOOOO!!!!!

My problem is that
1. IT Slips bad
2. No revese
3. When in Park about 1/4 throttle it wonts to move forward
4. No neural
5. It all wants to move forward
6. And no odd trans sounds

My Firebird will move but very slowly
:gag: I checked avery and any thing I could.

Please help me :confused: :confused: :confused: :mad:

It sounds like you have a cross-leak. Take the valve body back down and see if you either: 1- put the valve body gaskets in the wrong place. (Case gasket on plate side and vice-versa.) 2- Valve body gasket curled over. 3- Check balls not properly positioned.

I take it that it worked fine before you put the kit in?

Most common do it yourself 350 shift kit mistakes;

1. Plates assembly, with slot in one, installed incorrectly.
2. Old gasket material left on something.
3. Low control blocking spring installed in the wrong hole.
4. Manual valve not hooked up

You sound like a # 4 ;)

I'll check that too. All the checker balls are in the right places. And the valvebody
went on without a problem. BUT that gaskets could have moved over when I put the valvebody and governertubes also.

Yes my trans worked fine before I got my kit.

Plus the shift linkage works fine too.

I was wondering when I got the kit the guy warned me that the kit
"will NOT work if your trans presser can't mantain 200 psi in the trans line"

Is he full of hot air and sun shine?

What trans line. The governer?

:ranger: :confused:

HOws bout being 2quarts low on fluid?
Get a pressure gauge on that tap to see PSI vs shifter position and Vac mod.
Or add fluid until it puke out the vent tube while idling.
Just trying to help.

The only B&M shift kit I ever bought I returned.I did not like it for whatever reason,it was a long time ago.I like the Trans Go shift kits but the are expensive.
You know what works and is cheap is the GER shift kit.You can do what that kit does for free.The only differance between the seperator plate in the GER kit and a stock one is 2 holes,the same holes you would drill out as per the instructions.That and removing 3 out of the 6 or so check balls.
So you can drill out 2 holes in a stock plate and remove some check balls and you will have a shift kit that works for almost nothing.If you want to run a higher stall convertor just go down to a tranny shop and buy a orange pump spring.It works,I have one done like this in a car running low 11s.
And T400s are kind of picky about the fluid level.Check the fluid for air/foam in it.

Why was I thinking 350? Jeez I need to slow down!:doh:

The as-described GER kit is cheap for a reason... 2-3upshift gonna do the electric slide.
May run same ET & MPH though. Firmed shifts can be discussed/argued either way to slower or faster with the never-see-neutral automagic. HIS

Sooooo, the firm shifts are to promote clutch life by avoiding super-heating slip during apply. That clutch life be the functional reason to shift-kit.

:3gears: :mad: I was working on my problem last night and the valvebody was not loose, the checkballs in right places, the manual valve was hooked up too. I topped with 4 quarts
and I had reverse for 3 seconds and that slip too. And for drive. nothing.

:mad: :caked:



:fish:
fishin' for answers


Please post I want to do this :3gears:

Did the manual valve get turned around (reversed)?

I've installed B&M transpaks without having an issue.

What stage are you going with?

Oh yeah the pressure deal is a bunch of hot air. Only comes close to that in reverse. Sure he was refering to line pressure inside the transmission, which is the operating pressure. It's not cooler line, modulator or governor pressure.

3 seconds huh....can you add 2 more quarts?

I not know if I put on the manual valve backwards. I'm soor I don't.

Could it be the presser regulator valve?

And how much fluid would it need?
4 quarts is alot.

And I used the street stage if you wonding.

:ranger:

Thanks for posting to. You guys are awesome! :D

I rather be :3gears:

Sounds like you have no ranges. Do you have PARK?!
Verify the Shifter moves the outside LEVER, and the manual valve inside. Park?

That "moves in Neutral" is mysterious: impossible when Manual Valve is correctly connected.

Was fluid red, or pink when you started this?
New filter, O-ring on pickup tube top-side?

The fluid is red. There's no metal shavings in the pan.

BUT the last I assembled it all back together for the 3nd time WITH the manual
hooked up right this time. I fired it up no reverse or drive big deal. When I was packing up the tools for the night when I seen something on the floor that made me drop down to my knees. :pound: "A spring?" I said in a funny matter almost sleeping. THE SERVO SPRING! I always had it in before without the manual valve hooked up.

:snow:I've been away for a while. It's snowing out. I'm working on my bird.:)

Plus new filter and the pickup is fine too.

:burnout: :burnout: :burnout: :burnout: :faint:



The smilies are cool too:snow: :whoo: :hooray: :drive: :3gears:

NO SERVO Spring...Rear Servo or Valvebody2-3 servo?

Does Engine idle drop when you go for Rev, Drive?...idle rise in Neutral, Park?

It's the valvebody servo.

I thought the valvebody servo it the 1-2?

And the idle don't drop or anything threw all the gears

Park too. It stays the same.:gag:

Ah, finally someone with the same problem! I'm having the same issue with mine, only it's a Ford C4 (not sure how similar it is to a TH-400). Every gear selection it moves forward, even in park until it hits the parking pin. I'm going nuts trying to figure this thing out, did you ever find the problem?

Welcome to the performance years forum.

Does your C-4 move forward in reverse or lock up?

Just for what its worth, a C-4 is closer to a Torqueflite than any GM tranny.

Does it move forward in reverse, or does it tie up?

LOL, just noticed the post above.