Have A YH455 about 500 hp freashliy sealed. It's Leaking through the rear of oil pan. I used cork gaskit all around with the 2 add on brackits in the rear. Dose somebody have some good info. how to stop these from happening, I'm Getting tiered of pulling the engine.

Have A YH455 about 500 hp freashliy sealed. It's Leaking through the rear of oil pan. I used cork gaskit all around with the 2 add on brackits in the rear. Dose somebody have some good info. how to stop these from happening, I'm Getting tiered of pulling the engine.

are you sure it's leaking at the pan gasket and not past the rear main cap? one other thing the pan isn't cracked or pinholed is it? mike

I have the 2nd gen. chrome pan with the slots for the rubber seal. Is it possible for it to leak through the slots? I do not think it's from the main because the starter and area is covered with oil. Whats your best guess? Thanks for your time.

After about 20 minutes on the dyno, my YH455
leaked like crazy. I thought it was the rear main, but that rubber seal on the back of the pan had moved. I got some good advice- use the good ol' fashioned cork gasket! Tip the block upside down, use blue RTV and put the cork on to the rear main cap, holding it with 2 bolts into the block with washers tilted to hold the ends down for 24 hrs before putting the rest of the pan gaskets on. I have since done this on three motors without a drop!!

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GT37

When does it puddle under the car(if it does at all)While the car is sitting there running? Or after you park it for awhile?

I get a 6" puddle a day, alot coming through the inspection plate of the bell housing.

Chrome pans will leak if you don't rough up the gasket surface.

Mike, I had a chrome oil pan and it leaked.
The chrome surface was so slick that the seal would move/shift or just plain not seal.
You will have to use sandpaper to rough up the surface so the sealer will stick to it. Use Ultra blue it expands when oil hits it. It worked best for me.

Mike

I had the same problem, oil leaking between the rubber seal of the pan and the rear main cap. I had to pull the engine twice to fix it. This is how I solved the problem. I got a small pair of vice grips and carefully bent a small lip along the radius on the rear of the pan. By the way this pan is the one that uses the rubber seal with the three **** that go thru the holes in the pan. The newer design had five ****. On the seal I trim off the rubber part that the two rear bolts would go thru. I then glue the rubber seal to the pan using Ultra Blue and then place the pan on the block and tighten the rear four bolts with a light torque. Make sure there is no silicone on the outside of the seal or you won't be able to remove the pan without disturbing the seal. I then let it set up at least 24 hours. Then after that has set up I remove the pan and install the pan gasket and use a small amount of Ultra Blue on the rubber seal with a little extra where the rubber part meets the pan gasket. After the pan is in place and torqued down I fill the gap at the back of the pan between the rear main cap and the pan completely in with Ultra Blue silicone. The flywheel has to be off to do this. Then I allow a few days to allow it to set up completely before adding oil and start up. This method worked good for me.

Tim Corcoran

It may not be the cause or a issue here... but if you don't have the origional pieces installed, Warrior Racing (and others) sell a reproduction reinforcement kit that strengthens corners of the oil pan to help prevent leaks. These two bolt-on plates fit on the rear corners of the oil pan.

Yes, The kit is installed already. Dose anybody have a suggestion for a GOOD pan gaskit? Thanks all for the suggestions so far.

I've had the best luck with FelPro.

ditto on the felpro. mike

While building a 78 400 looked at the different rear seals. the 3 tit one actually stands 1/4" OFF the rear main cap when you put bolts in the bolt holes!The later 5 tit one fit perfect.

On my 72 455 the three tit worked its way out and leaked bad. I didn't trial fit the seal as I have read they all are the same size, obviously not on the 78 motor.

I have seen the machine shop cut off the 5 **** and just glue in that seal with weatherstrip glue. Another option is get Mr. Dremel tool out and slot the 3 ti pan for the 5 tit seal, bend a new lip or weld a small bead behind the place the gasket spot for the 3 tit.

One bad thing about the 3 tit is one side is round so it slides easily even with glue. The 5 tit is flat both sides as is the cork.