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-   -   1960 Ball Joint replacement, search and Suggested Spring compressor advice (https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=853231)

Burbach 174 09-13-2021 12:21 PM

1960 Ball Joint replacement, search and Suggested Spring compressor advice
 
Having replaced ball joints on another car of this era, this Bonneville is the first where I see the spindle above the lower control arm. Gripping the spindle yanking it in and out I can hear a slight movement in the lower ball joint (very slight) so I suppose it needs to be replaced.

I want to buy a center access spring compressor but wanted to ask if the ones you rent typically work or perhaps this on at rockauto https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...7297&jsn=17297


Also any preferred source for the ball joints as I see the rareparts version and Ames Performance and that's about it - some recommend Moog but I can't find them at all.

694.1 09-13-2021 12:39 PM

I have used a jack under the control arm to compress the spring. The shock will keep the spring were it belongs. In other words, keep it simple!

Burbach 174 09-13-2021 05:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 694.1 (Post 6279590)
I have used a jack under the control arm to compress the spring. The shock will keep the spring were it belongs. In other words, keep it simple!

You were able to get it high enough (or compressed enough) to get the ball joint out? I did one car once where the spring just lifted the car..

stevep 09-13-2021 08:26 PM

You have to disconnect the upper ball joint to get the spindle off of the lower.

Goatracer1 09-16-2021 12:44 AM

You don't have to disconnect the upper ball joint though it will give you more room to work. You can just jack up the lower arm until the upper control arm comes off the bump stop an inch or so. Then when you unbolt the lower ball joint the upper arm will drop down enough to remove the steering knuckle from the lower ball joint.

mgarblik 09-16-2021 09:29 AM

Floor jack method will certainly work. I would just add. Use a quality chain and padlock to wrap around the spring and padlock it in position to the frame or something that does not move under there. I would not depend on two 5/16" bolts on the shock to guarantee the spring can't get out. Just a little extra safety.

Burbach 174 09-18-2021 12:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mgarblik (Post 6280496)
Floor jack method will certainly work. I would just add. Use a quality chain and padlock to wrap around the spring and padlock it in position to the frame or something that does not move under there. I would not depend on two 5/16" bolts on the shock to guarantee the spring can't get out. Just a little extra safety.

Thank you - I was trying to imagine that so will do in combination to the other's advice.

stevep 09-21-2021 07:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mgarblik (Post 6280496)
Floor jack method will certainly work. I would just add. Use a quality chain and padlock to wrap around the spring and padlock it in position to the frame or something that does not move under there. I would not depend on two 5/16" bolts on the shock to guarantee the spring can't get out. Just a little extra safety.

I have never been able to do it that way.

Goatracer1 09-23-2021 01:07 AM

I'm 73 years old and I just did the springs using the same method by myself. I have always used the floor jack method.

Entropy11 09-23-2021 11:41 AM

I recently used that same/similar budget spring compressor you linked to. It’s the same one the local parts store here loans out. Surprisingly it actually had acme threads and was decent construction. I only used the lower jaws on my application as I sent the rod in through my top shock mount hole into the spring with just the lower jaws to compress upwards (added 2 or 3 washers on the top to let things spin easier). Did both sides on my ‘68 easily for $28 locally. Not sure how it might fit your ‘60 application, but it’s not a bad compressor for an odd use here or there.

Now if I can only get my good compressor back I can loan this one out next time!


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