My stuff is never full dialed in lol.. I also have 2 carbs to try and spacers..my trusty 950HP Holley is still my et king..but my ProSystems carb has beat it for mph..just hasn't 60 footed as quick.

"It has been a great convertor..has been behind 2 different cast head 455 engines, 2 different aluminum head 455's..used for 308 gears and 342 gears."

I'm still using my original Continental 10" converter. Although it was originally spec's to be the same as the "Jim Hand" or "tight 10" version it flashes considerably higher than what most others report from those units. I've also used it behind three different engines and several different configurations of those engines, iron heads, aluminum heads, flat cams, roller cams, etc.

I will also add here that I tested quite a few versions of the Continental 10" unit including a "3800" stall version and one that we dubbed the "poor mans race converter" which flashed to nearly 4400rpm's. I also tested a few experimental units including one dual stator unit. Certainly no place to discuss my testing or results on your thread but I will say that the current 10" converter is by far the best of them, at least when it comes to being a good converter for both street and strip use with 3.42 rear gears.

I suspect that you will need to have the UCC converter tightened up some even with taller 3.73 gears. Just a guess on my part based on some of the testing I've done with 3.42 gears and more 10" converters than I can count. There is ALWAYS a trade off between flash stall, more torque multiplication and not coupling as hard once the car has "rolled out". When we make improvements in 60' with more slippage and whacking the tires harder we loose much of that improvement up on the top end of the track with less efficiency. Every combo will have a converter that works the best and many dedicated Class Racers go thru quite a few to find it. Not much different with what you are doing, if you take good notes, keep good records and don't mind changing them out and sending them back in with the results from each change.

As always looking forward to reading about how the changes work and thanks for sharing.......Cliff

Getting closer. Found some spare time yesterday and installed the upgraded rearend with new gears, split calvert monos,caltracs and calvert shocks. I'm pretty happy with the stance of the car it always sat a little high on the rear. Now it sits about 3/4 of an inch lower and I'm sure it may drop a little more once things settle.
Today I spent time removing the complete exhaust, I'm also installing new Dougs headers to replace my old Hookers and also reworking the exhaust for better ground clearance.

8.5" 10 bolt?

The same one I've used from the start with this car..had the tubes welded,fresh bearings and gear swap.and paint to look pretty.

Stock height Split-monos?

Yes stock height.

2021: replace dash Tach with 68 Rally Clock. Maybe replace 15 year old slicks. Spare 463 Engine build.

How close is the rear bar to the support cover? My 12 bolt i the Camaro looked awful close as the suspension moved through it's range so used a Pro Toruing F body that had longer arms to kick it back some.

Under full compression it is about an 1/4 of an inch away.

Skip,
Was that bar the same or a different diameter? The bar rate will change for the same diameter but with different arm lengths.

Stan

Well, I for one am disappointed. I loved what you were doing with the car with 3.08 gears and wanted to see if you could go even faster. Heck, I'd like to see how you would do with a 2.73... LOL! To me, a 3.08 is a real streetable gear, 3.73s, not so much. I mean they're fine for around-town but try driving 100 miles with them and you won't be too happy.

But, I totally get why you're doing what you're doing and I'll still follow your pursuits with great interest. I really appreciate your posting all your testing, mods, and results here for us to learn from.

Thanks for the kind words. It's all about testing and comparing results. The one thing that I wanted to improve was the 60ft time. There is no doubt over the last few years my threads have shown you don't really need much gear to go quick as long as you have good horsepower and a good convertor.
I could say I'm moving foward..at least I hope so? I will eventually go to some sort of an overdrive transmission to drop the rpms or maybe shift to a totally different engine drivetrain setup.
I just don't want to become stale in this hobby..for me it's the tuning and testing that I enjoy.
Once I get the car dialed in this year, I'm going to keep testing my 2 different carbs and spacers. I also may have another carb to test this year as well.

Different combos but we just went from 4.11 to 3.55 and didn't really see much. 60ft slowed a little maybe? Mph about the same. Overall worst case the car maybe slowed up .04. But it's WAY better on the highway.

We did something similar and didn't really gain anything. We went from 3.42's to 3.73's. I don't even remember gaining on the 60 ft times. Disappointed.

I predict an after market block on it way..!!

Although I've never heard you talk about traction issues. The slight lowering in the rear will shift the weight bias to the rear, slightly. This could also help with 60' times.

Yes that was the reasoning and also it sat up a little too high. I've fought traction issues at times on marginal tracks. Swapping to 3.73's I had to improve the suspension setup. So new split monos,caltracs and rear shocks. I'm also going to swap my 26 inch tall front tires to 27's this year..that will help as well.
As far as front shocks my CE 90/10's always have seemed to work well...I may have to tighten them up slightly. I'm starting initially with a set of Calvert singles in the rear. Eventually the car will have 2 ways at front and back..most likely Viking shocks.

I installed the Doug's Headers today to replace my old Hooker Super Comps. I had to clearance the driver's side control arm and slightly flatten a passenger side tube that was resting on the crossmember. I wasn't too pleased with that. I think the issue is the header mounting flange is too thick. If they made it thinner all the clearance issues would go away.
The middle bolt holes were easier to get at on the Doug's as well as a couple other holes compared to the Hookers.
But overall the Hookers actually fit and go on easier with any modifications..so a heads up to anyone making a choice.

round port or D port headers? & what size tubes for the hookers & dougs? i use the 2" O-port super comps on a 2nd gen that fit & install surprisingly well but hang a little to low for how low the car is.

what do the taller front tires benefit, just the stance or less rolling resistance that ive heard people say? i just changed my 26" fronts for a set of sportsman 28 that are closer to 27.5 to help get the nose up that sat too low.