Is it posible to replace this fuel line?
 

On a bodies I have to get the body up and out of the way as it's one piece and not very maneuverable.

On the f-bodies it's a 2 piece design and easy to replace with the body in place.

Which are you working on?

I did it on my '64 by jacking the left rear of the body up. Ran the lines in through the rear wheel well. I installed two lines. One 1/2" and one 3/8". They are both stainless steel. The 3/8" line went in pretty well. It was easy to bend. The 1/2" was bad! B-Man has a good thread about this.

I've done it on a '63 Catalina and did not undo the body. The gas tank may have been out of the car I don't remember. The drive shaft and rear springs may have been out and the rear end hanging down on the control arms but don't remember that either. You have to thread it in.

Thanks--I will try to find B Man's thread. As I state above, when I replaced body mounts the cages were rusted out and I cut holes in the trunk again to gain access--which would make a big mess. I would like to avoid if I can.. Then re-assembled using just nuts and lock washers. I would have to cut open trunk access to get to rear body mount nuts loosened...

I wonder if I cut trunk open again I could lift body enough to get this done? At this point with the rear body mount still tight (the rest loose) I can get body up about 3/4" which is not enough.

if you have to open it up again is it an option to weld the nuts in? rather than opening up that area again?

With the body on my '71 GTO, I had to chisel the mounting tab screw off to remove the old line and was able to push the new line back in close to where it was. Of course had to skip the clip and fastener on top of the frame and install one on the side of the frame.

Measured the rise of the fuel line where it kicks up in the frame area/ starting of the rearend crossmember on one of my projects, a '71. The rise is near 10 inches. In order to get the front of the fuel line through the frame, the body is going to have to come up at least a foot. That's with the gas tank out, & you will have fun twisting/wrangling the back of the new fuel line without kinking it. With the fenders off, no engine or transmission installed, I have used the same process many times, which takes about 3 hours to get the body up that high.

Alternative...

If cutting the fuel line into two sections, it would be best if a bubble flair was put on the end of each section of steel line so the line seals better with the rubber hose connection. By marking the original fuel line where it exits the frame front crossmember,mas well as the area of the transmission crossmember, you can better discern an area to make the rubber hose connection. FWIW, Firebirds used such a rubber hose connection on their main fuel line towards the rear of the subframe.

I have done aluminum 1/2” line with a fuel filter splice along the inner frame rail several times with the body attached to the frame. If your combo is other than stock your butt meter will thank you with the extra fuel supply on banzai bursts.

I'll say you'll be fighting yourself and get nowhere with one piece. Even with the frame separated, the line is tricky twisting and turning to route it as the factory did.

Unless this is a concourse resto get a roll of aluminum fuel line, hook a coat hanger to it with duct tape to pull it thru the front frame horn and line up with the fuel pump inlet. Unroll the rest of the fuel line and bend and shape as needed to fit in the factory clips. Bubble flare each end, hooked up whatever attaching hose you’re gonna use front and rear and take off. I did this in my car in less than an hour