Dent School
 

A couple of pics of my trunk lid which will be the first part I fully prepare and prime ... figured it would be the best starting point since it's flat with a simple curve, easy to move around and work with.

Pictured are a couple of dents by the key hole. Wondering how to handle them. You can see the "eyebrow" on the curve in the deck. There is some access to the back but very hard to see what you are doing on the other side. Considered making a custom tool to push from the back but so far most of the leverage points seem too delicate.

Thinking maybe tack on a stud and pull some while tapping down the eyebrow. Worth it to fashion a tool? Or should I pull it? Or use another method?

And what's with the dealerships back in the day ... looks like they centerpunched the holes for the dealer emblem :)

https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...1&d=1627772693

https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...2&d=1627772699

I would try a round ended tool and get behind it. Gently warm it to around 175 degrees.
The dealer emblem..... sadly thats what we were told to do.
The lowest man / youngest man on the pole usually did set ups. I was careful with emblem holes and did drill, and used a dab of "GMS" on the studs.

I think you have the right idea with pulling it. Shouldn't take much effort to get those small dents out, gentle tapping around the perimeter with a light tug should do it. May need to finish it up with a shrinking disk If you tug to hard

Stud gun and body hammer

Here are some photos from phase one. Did some pulling and some minor tapping. Second photo is the finished product so far. Visually looks great, ruler shows some ups and downs about .020" ... my hands must be sensitive, they feel like mountains.

Going to mess with it a bit more, try to make sure there are no highs on the crown of that curve and call it good.

And I was mistaken, these trunks are not flat or straight, at least not around the lower half .... has a very gentle curve from side to side with the peak being around the key hole and a very slight arch along the bend and for a few inches toward the rear window. Course some of that may be because the deck is not attached to the frame with vibration damping yet.

https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...9&d=1627817518

And after a bit more work.

https://forums.maxperformanceinc.com...0&d=1627817523

Excellent work so far!!!

Looks great!

I can definitely still feel something, going to check tonight for highs and knock those down and leave the rest. Might still have a couple of tiny mounds left by the stud weld tack.

Attachment 570747

You need to get one of these body files ….if you want to be a bodyman.. this here tool …will find high and low spots with just a few swipes…while working bare metal .. Then ,when you think you got it….I DA the repaired metal area with 80 grit on a DA….then pass the file over that area again….and look and see what the file marks tell you.

Good idea, just ordered a file and holder.