Rusty Divider Plates
 

Is there any way to protect them if you can clean them up? I've been thinking of using a rust killer like what Eastwood sells. And if possible using some kind of heat resistant paint over that. Will it work or just wasting time and money? Or some kind of solution that you'd put it in to soak to kill the rust and protect it?

I know Rustolium has spray can of rust killer, and I've used a product called Extend before that worked. Haven't seen that one lately but there is stuff out there.

BTW... this is for useable original divider plates, not the SS plates.

Gary, ever think about powder coating. Also anodizing is cheap enough and either would work!

Dan, if powder coating adds any increase in thickness to the plates it won't work. It's close now for the fit for them in the timing cover. Anodizing sounds like it'll be the best way.

It does Gary, but I doubt much. I'll talk to the guy that can do either and see what he thinks and how durable anodizing is!

I talked to Andre and bought all the plates. I hope you don't mind. I will choose one and send the others to Charles or you. I have got to get my car on the road. I just pray the plates are the real deal dn aI have a call to Bob Vidan as well.

The plates are the real deal, and considering how good a condition they are for being 44-47 years old, I reallly don't think you have to do anything to them but run good antifreeze or coolant. As a matter of fact, on my '66 motor that sat for 20 years with prestone/water mix in it, and never started, the plate and timing chain cover were like NOS.

Yep, it's when the pump and plates sit in water or nothing at all is when they rust out. I've seen that on many junkyard enginges that were drained of coolant or just had plain ol water in them.

I happen to have an 11 bolt pump and plate that were stored that way and are no good. Didn't matter as all I cared about was the timing cover, and that went for a good cause to qualitly control at Cardone Industries.

Where you planning on converting to the 11 bolt originally?

Andre, the top plate in the picture has to be the same Stainless plate I have other than mine is golden in color from Ames. If it is the stainless one, it is useless with a good pump like I now have from Cordone. You would have to hammer the hell out of it to make it kind of work. The other two plates in the picture do look original Banging on a plate seems crazy to me.

Paul says he does it all the time to make them work and the plate is SUPPOSED to be a copy of an original from the last design Pontiac came up with! I know better. It may work with the botched up pumps the manufacturers have been making, but there is no way in hell, Pontiac on the assembly line, banged the hell out of the plates to make each one fit! Someone is not thinking and to me the Ames plate is WRONG.

Gary has been right all along. Where I started the quest on the pump change with Cordone and Charles and Gary sealed the deal, Gary was very insistent from the start about the plate being wrong and he was RIGHT!

X2. Run a quality antifreeze and never let the mix drop below 50/50, and change it at least every other year and the plate should last indefinitely.

You can't anodize steel. It is a process that is done to aluminum.

I thought you could anodize any metal! I will check! Thanks!

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anodizing


Blast it and have it zinc plated JMHO

I
m unsure how zinc would last. I could get it chromed as well. Still think powder coating is tough enough and the ammount of increase it causes would be minimal!

This one I have almost looks like it was painted. But it may have been Black Phosphate plated.

I cleaned the originals in my '65 and in my '67 and painted them and the inside of the timing cover with Glyptal to prevent further oxidation and corrosion. Glyptal is that orange/red electrical insulation enamel used on electrical windings and inside of motors. I first learned of it when I redid the magneto in my Ford Model T. The stuff is like epoxy, withstands hot engine oil and coolant, and is bulletproof. A lot of engine builders paint the lifter galley's of the block with it, as well as the top side of the cylinder heads to help speed up oil flow to the sump. It feels like porcelain or epoxy when it dries, and it dries fast. I picked up a spray can of it at an electrical supply house for under $5.

At least yours looks like an old one with the slight bevel to accommodate the impellor. The stainless ones have little bevel and without the key way cut cause problems.

you can have them passivated or phoshate coated ( marhyde sellds phosphating chemicals for bodyworking ) http://3mcollision.com/mar-hyde-one-...ter-03513.html , this will work for any ferrous type of material ,
Norwood is right anodizind only works on aluminum as it forms a hard oxide from the electric current and sulfuric acid on the face of the metal.

Stimpy, the only thing I wonder about Mar-Hyde® One-Step® Rust Converter, is whether or not it will stand up to the engine heat or not. I'd hate to see it chemically breakdown and mess up an engine.

I did a Technical search in their that website and found nothing on it being compatable with engine coolant or the amount of heat it can withstand. Got everything but info on the rust converter.

phosphating holds up to the heat , its the same black oxide they use on alot of parts , if it where to break down it will only be iron oxide again (rust) . and theres not enough to worry about chemical damage as its applied ,then washed off with water leaving the thin coating . if you have it covered with water and a/f and its corroding that means your a/f has gone bad ( gone acidic ), and the plate will be the least of your worries

Thanks on that, sounds like the perfect solution. I'll go look for some, pull mine and coat them. :thumbup:

Also have some Gibbs Lubricant coming to treat them first. Charles says it's goooood stuff from what he's seen so far. And you can paint over it.